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I'm buyin a Zed... soon

funkymonkey
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funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, yes I've decided to defect over to the Zed club lol... well not quite... the car I have in mind is a 1988 200ZR... which if you know you're RB's will know is a crossover Zed that came with an RB20DET. Its a Z31. My cuz wants a first car, but dosen't want something expensive, so I'm thinkin of bringing down a car from japan for him. He dsen't like skylines, but he likes the old Zeds. The deal is I use it for a few months while my car's in the shop and then palm it off to him for a couple of hundred less.

Does anyone have any info on this car (other than the usual stats that's available) or know anyone in australia that owns one.

Z31club-41a.jpg

Z31club-41b.jpg

banebane69-img600x450-1087518108p1010014.jpg

tanakaru2-img600x450-1075554953p1010340.jpg

Here's something like what I wanna get though...

MYFAIRLADY.jpg

myz9.jpg

myz2.jpg

myz1.jpg

Rb20det.jpg

Mmm same angine that came in an R31, we'll most probably swap it for a newer Rb20det though

myz10.jpg

Mmm watanabe's

myz5.jpg

myz3.jpg

mmm nice profile too...

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44364-im-buyin-a-zed-soon/
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funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

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  • Author
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no i haven't actually... is he on the forum? got pics?

they hardly come up for sale in japan (yahoo auctions or USS auctions) but when they do, they sell pretty cheaply...

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

Uses NICS type (1st Gen) RB20DET. Not exactly a powerhouse...about 140kW in stock form. Top mount IC suffered similar problems to GTiR...efficiency drops dramatically with increasing temps and increasing boost makes things worse. Best changed for an FMIC (not that easy with the nose shape on these things) or a water/air type.

Note that the sump on these is a different configuration to the R31/R32 spec RB20DET's....sump bowl is at the rear, not the front. May be possible to just swap sump/pick-up but I don't know for sure...

rs73 Grand Master

rs73

Posted
Posted

Back in 1988, 140kw is plenty and in an older, lighter chassis it will deliver a decent performance. 160ps (115-120kw) at the time of KPGC10 in 1970s is considered above most competitions already, although it is hard for those figures to impress when presented in the modern world today, as public are 300kw minded these days.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

they go for roughly $2100 - $2500 to buy in japan, and then there's the rest of the costs. All up under 8grand to bring into the country. An RB20DET out of an R32 should be about $1k to pick up in oz (I know company that can't get rid of em). I've got the general instructions on how to swap em, including the R32 ECU, so once that's done it should purr along nicely.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
Best changed for an FMIC (not that easy with the nose shape on these things) or a water/air type..

I would look at one of FMIC they sell for late model Civics -- they seem to be extremely thin and long, and might just fit behind that front bar.

funky: why not go for something more classic, like a 260 or even a 240? Come to think of it, what do those go for in Jay-phan?

LW.

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted

i have an r32gtst standard i/c including piping if you want a cheap upgrade from the top-mount item...

my bro used to have an R31 (although with the vg30e) and it wass a nice car to drive and nice inside for and older car

the 200zr looks much 'smoother' though

great idea and good luck with the buy!

Waz.

  • 2 months later...
KIL.08S Collaborator

KIL.08S

Posted
Posted

Hay i have one, it is a great car to drive i got it of autostyle in sydney. Dom's orange one is a machiene and just got sold to a guy on the central coast. made 469Kw on low boost without the nos (has only used the nos set up a hand full of times) and thats at the rears. its well cool :). any way i would deffo advise getting one i have no regrets, there comfertable and practicle and great to drive. as well they are an RB20 so plenty of tuning potential. the only problem i have is the suspention, the camber is not adjustable so it is on -3.61 degrees at all times and burns through tires in no time. i am looking into a way of getting this rectified at the moment.

oh, and it's easy enough to fit a fromt mount, i have a R33 V-Spec item in mine and works a treat.

some pics of mine

635435_2_full.jpg

635435_1_full.jpg

KIL.08S Collaborator

KIL.08S

Posted
Posted

Then it wasn't trying or it had excessive wheel spin. I was talking to Dom about it and he said that if he tried to use the nos it just wheelspinned on the dyno. I will ask him again but i'm sure i'm right.... i'm always right, ask any one who knows me :D:)

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