Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i was wondering if its possible to jimmy a locked door on an r33?

I walked back to my car and my door was unlocked and my tablets were stolen (the only thing stolen actually) and i know it was locked cos i always double check it cos i keep tablets in the car for emergencies or if i carnt get home in time. So how did they unlock my door and how can i stop this from happening again cos these tablets are very important to me and now i dont have an emergency stash

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/
Share on other sites

89cal - lighten up i wasnt asking how to break in or a step by step on how to break into a car.. geez

Ben - yeah thanks for tips

i have an alarm but i dont use it cos it keeps going off for no reason i need to adjust the sensors or something. Someone mentioned to me about the Valet thing, and this is the best idea, its perfect

Edited by Mick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7295540
Share on other sites

I wasn't trying to be too much of an asshole, but think about it

Someone wants to break into a skyline, Goes on google 'How to break into skyline', this thread comes up, then indirectly you have HELPED someone break into a car. Thats why its never a good idea to ask these things on a public forum. Go see someone who specialises in car alarms and security and they will be able to help.

I'm just trying to protect myself and others on here. I have an alarm but I don't want it to get to that stage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7295572
Share on other sites

putting your valuables into your boot and using the valet switch on the boot so that the boot lever beside your seat is disabled and only the key can open it really is the perfect solution for keeping valuables safe just in case someone actually gets in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7295725
Share on other sites

Update - my friend heard that someone was trying to sell the same medication that was stolen out of my car at the local pub close to where my car was parked so im going to try find out who it was tomorrow after my doctors appointment yay!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7296451
Share on other sites

yeah i need to get mine calibrated so it doesnt go off all the time, i spent $1600 on it so it is a good one, i have the car monitor which has an lcd puc of a car and if my alarm goes off it tells me and shows me what set it off like door open or ultrasonics or motion detect etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7296501
Share on other sites

6 of my kapanol and 2 of my old oxycontin. It may not seem like alot but they are very strict and keep close monitoring of them so it is so hard to save up some spares for emergencies, im very annoyed but I had my doctors the other day so i got my new lot so im happy, i have lower disc degeneration in my back and it gives me severe pain.

Edited by Mick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443677-jimmying-an-r33/#findComment-7299896
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...