Jump to content
SAU Community

Import... I'm stupid, I know... but I love it!


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey man, how many times have you been pulled over for doing nothing? It was a crappy MX-6, last time you got pulled over did the cop ask you to have a look in the glove box? I thnik not. I'm not a winger, I don't feel sorry for myself, but I know when I've been pulled over by a red neck. You get over it!

I've lived in Melboure for 21 years, I just get upset when people stero-type me, I play fotty, I know all the words to the Australian antham. I love multicultural Melbourne and have never been unemployed. Live in my shoes and take the crap thown at you more times then required. Sorry this is getting out of hand and dont want to sound like a $2 preacher, wont be telling anymore "bad luck" past events.

sorry i didn't mean to attack you personally, but re-reading my previous post its odvious that i did, ive had a bad week my apologises

best of luck with getting the car on the road :)

like the dick that just won't let up at every set of lights you stop at, sure he may have thrashed you the first and second time... but third, get stuffed... show that mo fo who's got the brass.

Doesn't sound to me like you've learned anything with your past 3 licence suspensions :)

I guess some people just don't get it :Oops:

edit: very nice car :) Hope you get your power/weight ratio issue sorted...

And in case you didn't get it before, stop speeding on the roads, and you'll draw less attention to yourself... Amazing isn't it!!!!

I'm not to sure why the "pods" are not on. (I hope they put some on B4 delivery):)

The purchase of the car comes with papers and receipts for engine rebuild by ENDLESS only 1,000 km ago. That was a big factor for purchaching this car, so I'm (praying) that the garage that it's in at the moment now what they are doing. I have more pics of the car on idle and everything looks sweet. How bad could it be anyway? Don't some on the hard tuned GTR's run with no pods? (last attached pic of engine bay is not mine, just reference to pods question)

that's a very nice piece of R32... weel done, looks very clean a straight, apart from the the pod issue, nothing major, I just would be driving an everyday car with pods/filters..

if they were driving the car with no pods, I'd get the turbo checked to if it was damaged by debrit.

Other wise. Very Nice.

Great pics, definetely take it to racepace when it gets here. As for the pods, i think you'll find that the other GTR in the last pic dosn't get driven very often if at all on the dusty roads, and your GTR has a dirty engine bay and is very likely to be driven daily- i think :)

I am a bit concerned about the condition of the engine bay. But it's amazing how much you can suddenly trust someone when you are in love with what they are selling. I hope and I'm quietly confident that (won't name) but well respected importer in Melb. is telling the truth and no fudgging receipts or anything like that.

Can anyone let me know if you can spot any "obvious" warning signs about my engine. (looks like alot of exhaust has been leeking from the headders onto the turbo? I'm anything but engine savy. A little knowledge is Dangerous!)

a) its had a respray in silver (black engine bay), so the outside condition may be a little misleading. Going on the engine bay, it hasn't had the easiest life.

B) going on the engine bay also it appears to have done a crapload of km.. 150,000km+ ?? what is it meant to have done?

c) hmmm.. you do have a bit in the bank to pay for anything that might crop up?

d) I'm not sure, but personally I'd be a little suspicious of "rebuild just yesterday". While the workshop may be a well known one, you can bet the owner isn't going to them "spend whatever needs doing i'm going to be keeping it for another 200,000km". The budget option or "leave it" is probably going to be mentioned.

a) its had a respray in silver (black engine bay), so the outside condition may be a little misleading. Going on the engine bay, it hasn't had the easiest life.  

B) going on the engine bay also it appears to have done a crapload of km.. 150,000km+ ?? what is it meant to have done?  

c) hmmm.. you do have a bit in the bank to pay for anything that might crop up?  

d) I'm not sure, but personally I'd be a little suspicious of "rebuild just yesterday". While the workshop may be a well known one, you can bet the owner isn't going to them "spend whatever needs doing i'm going to be keeping it for another 200,000km". The budget option or "leave it" is probably going to be mentioned.

Money, yes. But would rather keep it where it is.

It's meant to have done 70,000km (you can see this on one of the pic's above)

Resprayed, I thought so. All the other Skylines I have seen prior have the same colour engine bay as the car. Not to fussed about that though (It's a good paint job... well I think so anyway)

What is it that makes you think it's done 150,000km+? Is it just because it dirty? Is there something in the pic's that looks sus, worn out or damaged?

Quote:

Originally Posted by meshmesh

Power To Weight: No problem, apply for an exemption from Vic Roads.

 

I think you'll find that its a big problem. Or a waste of time.

Has anyone ever done this? Whats the process? Just a form or do you need to get the car checked out at Vic Roads?

I'm not an expert, but have seen under the bonnet of a quite a few skylines.

Its just the general wear and condition indicates its done probably more than 100,000km. Just scratches and general wear and tear things that you can see in there. It seems to be more than just the dirt I think and quite a lot of wear and tear (from the photos anyhow).

See the radiator and support grommets - they're very worn. In this photo especially:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/at...achmentid=18162 you can see the hoses there look pretty weathered with the paint cracking off. The bolts you can see are fairly weathered and old with a fair amount of corrosion on them. Just stuff like that.

Anyhow, just explaining what gives me that impression. Could be fine, and km are never a good indicator (especially on the jap cars). As long as the rest checks out in good condition, then who cares really.

Looking at your R32, i can hear myslef ticking off all the boxes on my wishlist for an R32 GTR, congrats on the purchase. :(

As for the dirty engine bay, the only thing that i see that would be cause for concern (but still wouldnt lose any sleep over) is the carbon build up on the compressor cover and the oil on the rocker cover...i would suspect that any engine that has been rebuilt only 1000kms ago would have been cleaned as the thing was bolted back together with new gaskets as required???

I have seen so many filthy engine bays on imports, im actually a litle more concernded when its clean, as they may have used degreaser and high pressure hose to clean it all up to hide the oil weaping/leaks etc etc...

The odometer says 70,000kms, but dont forget its an aftermarket Nismo cluster, so you have no real idea of when they put that on, new, at 100,000kms? Was the cluster new or 2nd hand when it went on, who knows? BUT you have a car that has some pricey gear already installed on it, the body and wheels look trick, and the interior looks tidy as well.... so you are already well ahead of the game, if yo uneed a new gasket or soemthing like that your laughing

Well ill put my hand up, if you are in any way not happy with the car, id be happy to give you the keys to my silver R32 GTST :(

This should be interesting...

I would like to get feedback on this car. So far I've got mixed signals coming in. If you could reply with on of the following and a short explination on your choice.

1. Would not touch it with a 10ft. pole

2. Nice - but will need to spend $______(please guess what you think) to get it reliable for daily driving.

3. Nice - dont think it will have many problems, nothing unexpected for a 15 year old car.

4. Love it, can't wait to drive it (who cares if you need to spend a few bucks) it's a GTR. (thats my choice)

List of items on car already:)this is also why I got this one) aftermarket parts on this thing would total $9000AUS+ (I think, correct me if I'm wrong) I've put some more pics in.

Trust F/M

GReedy T78 33D kit

GReedy Oil cooler

Adjustable CAM gears

TEIN coil covers

N1 exhaust turbo back

GReedy Boost Gauge 60mm

GReedy Oil Temp Gauge

GReedy RPM Gauge

Profec-B Boost controler

Nice slightly off-set rims (personal opinion)

And probably more stuff that I will find once it gets to OZ.

Probably have to buy some pods for it

Alpine MD head unit (big deal) but I wont need to worry / spend money on tunes straight away.

No turning back now anyway, I made my multi-million transfer already - like that feeling, even though it's YEN.. it's still a million dollar car yeh :(

Done... I forgot to put it on the last list.

Slotted fronts and drilled rears.

Open in other app. and zoom in and you can see the brake upgrade (rotors anyway, not sure about clippers, look like NISSAN standard?)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...