Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've noticed on eBay there's a few greddy 6 throttle body's intake plenum replicas on ebay, now the greddy is around the $1100 mark and the eBay jobs are around $300 to $500 but still boast of decent power gains. Has anyone brought a eBay special and noticed the gains with there rb26? Or had any troubles with them?Or is it best to stay with the original intake?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444211-ebay-plenum-for-rb26/
Share on other sites

Who's to say the Ebay one won't also?

Have you checked this theory by measuring the egt's in each runner, or are you just happy to quote old wives tales? Gibson didn't have any trouble with it afaik...

I'm just asking questions to find out if it's worth while or not. I'm no mechanic and trying to find these things out on google is hard if not to no answer at all. That's why I've tyres to the forum to hopefully find someone that has done this and that may help me out

People do all kinds of stupid things, that doesn't mean you should copy them... :P

I have seen 500kw through a factory setup, intercooler, plenum, manifolds, piping, airbox, fuel lines etc. If you are near that I would be more worried about the block splitting than the runner flow. Just run a fat mixture and cram some more boost in.

Just to help the OP, ive got a genuine Greddy and had a ebay/china copy side by side.

You had to look really hard to spot the differences, runners, diameters, everything identical, slight differences in casting lines...very slight.

Would come down to the quality of the alloy IMHO.

Ive met and spoken with a Chinese manufacturer that makes them, as he said to me with any part, supply me with the brand name original and ill copy it for a fraction of the price and you wont tell the difference.

And just to throw a spanner into the works, he was offering them to me for $US 80 dollars each 2-3 years ago, no wonder there are so many copies out there......

Would come down to the quality of the alloy IMHO.

This... And how it's actually made. You can have the same materials, same design (making a mould isn't hard) and still stuff it up by having the casting temperatures or cooling speed all wrong. End up with a brittle part of the product which will be the first to crack under a high load.

Personally, I wouldn't want anything potentially breaking off a scraggy bit of metal under high temp / pressure and going straight into my engine. So if you go for a cheap copy get it checked out with a scope and cleaned up before it goes near the car.

  • Like 1

I found a few forums searches off google saying that they lean number 6 , thought I'd ask before I finished my motor because it would be easier to change a manifold whilst it's out. I'm thinking I might buy the greddy/trust manifold for peice of mind

Re cylinder 6 - true. Although tuned around.

Stock plenum is awesome and you will have no issues so keep it. Don't waste your money on these for the RB26

In my opinion the best is the Nismo Plenum - max 2-4% improvement - EDITED: 1-2% power and 0.4% fuel saving - SUBJECTIVE. Yes I have one

At $1500-$2000 money is spent better elsewhere.

Topic covered heaps already

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1

I'm building my motor ATM to have around 450 to 500kw

I found a few forums searches off google saying that they lean number 6 , thought I'd ask before I finished my motor because it would be easier to change a manifold whilst it's out. I'm thinking I might buy the greddy/trust manifold for peice of mind

I see.

Well I'd double check with Racepace, just give them a call to confirm.

As I have said before, you can get decent power gains with the stock Inlet Plenum but how much to what point, I'd double check.

So yeah, don't go throwing your money on ebay parts.

I noticed your user name and that you had a R32 GTR, so im assuming your doing a RB30 bottom end?

If so, before you go any further, the Greddy plenum will hit your clutch master, there are work arounds, or a few ways to do it but if your only going to 500Kw you may as well stay with the factory item, it does still work well.

Yes 6 can lean out, or run leaner, quick cheap way is get your injectors flow tested and put the highest flowing one on number 6. ;)

Otherwise 6 EGT probes on the manifold will do the trick......as will getting the tuner to run injector 6 a little longer.

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1

Yeah mate I'm halfway through building a 26/30. Can the stock manifold be port match to the head or is it already done from factory? Also is there threads on how to fix the greddy manifold with the clutch master cylinder touching?

There are a few threads, all with different suggestions/methods in the RB30 section.

From using spacers under the cross member to steering shaft spacers to cutting the bonnet, some even remove the clutch booster and use a different clutch slave with spacer.

We are doing the same build right now for our 26/30 R32 GTR.

Edit, Forgot to add, port matching always helps, all depends on how far you are going or are prepared to look at details.

Edited by GTRPSI
  • Like 1

I've had the 30 bottom end in my GTR before but I never went crazy on the head. My n1 pump let go so I'm spending abit more this time. But all I did was cut the inner braces out of the bonnet and tapped the floor up abit with a hammer near the low mount dumps for clearance. Everything else was sweet. Well I've got an aluminium die grinder bit so I better port match it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...