Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

i will be fitting a set of tomei type B poncams (260deg 9.15mm) to my rb25det neo soon, but im having a hard time finding suitable valve springs. Can anybody tell me if the standard valve springs are single or duel springs? will i need to change valve spring guides if i go from single to duel or vise versa?

Also what is the general consensus on reusing retainers, collets and cam hold down bolts?

  • 8 months later...

In the same boat as you. Have been told that the neo head can handle 22psi on pump fuel and 25 26 on e85. But if wanting to run more than 22psi I need to upgrade the spings. Have been told by a few people to stay away from profamance spings and go for supertech spings. Been having problems finding them tho.

why not just see how it goes on the dyno? pretty sure a lot of people have had no issues without even opening the motor..

worst case scenario is they start to valve bounce and you have to change them then a touch up tune??????

Edited by AngryRB

with the tomei type b's you run the risk of spitting a shim with standard springs. they wont float or do anything bad its just one of the things that CAN happen.

Tomei do a matching valve spring but Jap springs are rubbish.

Ring places like supertech about a spring to suit 25neo which is a shim over bucket (not shim under bucket like rb26) single spring with something like 64 pound seat pressure (least i think its 64 pound but that was a bulldog spring for some serious ramp rate cams so might be a bit overkill for you.

how do the springs know what psi is being given?

The pressure applied by boost to the back of the inlet valve is how they know. The more boost the more pressure trying to open the valve.

So running 20 psi adds 20 psi of opposing force to the spring being able to close the inlet valve.

As Mark says PSI is irrelevant - revs, power and cam profile will determine the need for new springs.

Just to add to my previous post, power makes no difference to valve spring requirements.

How does the valve know how much power its making?

Revs, cam profile and boost are basically the factors.

Notice how engines valve float but when boost is reduced can still rev cleanly to redline? The valve opens and shuts just the same when at max revs regardless of power output, the difference is how much boost acting against the inlet valve closing.

I ended up getting 'performance' springs, haven't installed them yet tho.. Isn't a big name brand but haven't heard anything bad about them plus aussie made so should be sufficient.

why not just see how it goes on the dyno? pretty sure a lot of people have had no issues without even opening the motor..

worst case scenario is they start to valve bounce and you have to change them then a touch up tune??????

Because I have to travel ~ 2000km return to a tuner, why not do it right the first time

As Mark says PSI is irrelevant - revs, power and cam profile will determine the need for new springs.

PSI is VERY relevant.

I can't see how power can make any difference seeing that both valves are shut when it goes "bang".

Boost pushing against the intake valve is a big contributing factor in float.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...