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Turbo Choice For A 32 Gtr

ballarat32

By ballarat32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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ballarat32 Rookie

ballarat32

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone!

First post on here outside my new member post so be nice :)

I have a '94 32 GTR that's still running factory turbos and I'm looking at upgrading to chase a few more horses.

Currently fitted to the car I have:

3.5" front pipes back exhaust

pod filters

Nistune ECU

Turbosmart dual stage boost controller (tuned at 14psi mainly)

Sard 700cc injectors

Bosch 023 fuel pump

Yellowjacket sparks

Standard intercooler

Tuned by Chaser's Motorworks to 220kw @ 14psi.

Have already done suspension/brakes/clutch for driveability and handling, just planning on working on the power for now.

The car is my daily driver so I'm not after insane kw's on stupid boost, just something with a good kick that's reliable. A ballpark figure I have decided to aim for is 280-300kw as I've read a few profiles and that seems driveable and fun without being a mongrel to manage/maintain. I have had suggested to me going with the Garrett -7 turbos, Tomei stage 2 cams, cam gears and dump pipe however this is a little over my current budget.

Is there anything I should consider doing that can be mildly tuned but allow for future modifications to bump it up without making parts redundant? ie a turbo set that can tune for 280 but can handle 350 or so if i push further.

Essay over lol

Cheers

Ben

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Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

As above.

As for cams, either leave the stockers in there or go 250 poncams.

Go through this thread and have a looksie. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

ballarat32 Rookie

ballarat32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers for that Brett and Paul!

Had a look through the dyno sheet pages before, soo many drool worthy beasts on there! There seems to be a lot of people using the HKS 2530's in their build and this was what the previous owner was planning on doing to it prior to unfortunate circumstances (for him) meaning I purchased the car. Is there any reason to stick with the Garrett turbo's as a pose to the HKS counterparts? Other than the 2530's are secondhand due to production, they seem to be tuned for a far broader range of powers than the Garretts that I've seen out there. Seen some 2530 builds at 250kw right the way through to 400, dependent on internal works like cams and stroker kits.

r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

The 2530s are no longer available so you need to find a second hand set, but the -5 is only a bees dick smaller and great results have been achieved with them especially when used with e85

The -9s are the same as the hks gt-ss turbos but cheaper due to not having hks written on the box

Basically if you want 400 go for the -5 and if a little under 350 is your goal go for the -9

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

Can of worms there.

A 250 KW 2530 turbocharged GTR either has something wrong with it or has 10 psi running through it. Some believe the HKS turbo's are super dooper compared to their garrett counter parts - You be the judge of that :P.

2530's are too big for a stock standard engine (this is only my opinion)... unless you're a straight line guy.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/254450-79s-or-5s-garretts/ Here is a 48 page thread -7/-9 (N1 pr GT SS) VS -5 (close enough to 2530's.)

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

I just want to add that if you do end up wanting a set of -5's, -10's or HKS 2530's make sure you drive a car with this set up or at least go for a ride along. these turbo's are super common I'm sure you'll find someone willing.

2530's and -10's are old tech nowadays, too laggy for a standard 26 street car imo. The -9's are really the best option but most pricey.

I think they are GT2859 -9 rather than 2860.

but this isn't really my area of expertise I'll let someone else weigh in

ballarat32 Rookie

ballarat32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah after doing a bit more reading it does seem that the -5's might not be what I want for a milder street tune, definitely heading in the -7 or -9 direction as I'm never going to run it out to 350+kw while it's a daily driver - 300 would be an absolute top figure. Combine that with wanting to tune for response rather than top end pull it's looking like the -9 is the option (if I can afford to fit and tune them lol).

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Last time i looked -7s came with new adjustable actuators, whereas -9s dont. So -7s may save you $300-400 once you take that into account. Dont run the old factory actuators. If all you want is 300kws then -7s are fine.

Ambi3nce Contributor

Ambi3nce

Posted
Posted

Read my build thread OP I was in same boat as you, tossing up between 5's and going 500hp or 9's and a bit less,

I ended up with 9's, type b cams and the usual mods on e85 with 343kw/470hp at 18psi on a responsive and really fat mid range.

You will drop off a bit at the top of the mid range on 9's but on a stock internal motor built for street response I see this as a positive as I do not have to wring its neck to get peak power.

Like others said, for street I believe I definitely made the right turbo choice, 5's might only be another 750-1000rpm (guessing) later to full boost but having 18psi by 4K has been amazing so far.

gtr jet Veteran

gtr jet

Posted
Posted

As everyone else has said. If only aiming for a responsive 300kw, -7's or -9's are the way to go. -9's being a bit more expensive.

I'm making 325kw on -7's with cam gears (standard cams) and a set of dump pipes.

If you're on a budget that's all you need.

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

You've got All the best advice with the -9's from everyone to get over 300kws with good response.

and as Paul first said stick with the stock cam shafts (save money) or change up to Type R's. (about $580 a set)

Cam gears for finer tuning

I currently run Type B's with -7's for 325kws also.

But will be replacing with Type R's very soon. in250/ex250

The Type B's are lumpier, slightly laggier but fatter mid range. Very little benefit on stock/smaller turbo's IMHO. Just a lumpier sound.

Peak power is extremely minimal between Type A, B and R on -7's / -9's.

XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

You've got All the best advice with the -9's from everyone to get over 300kws with good response.

and as Paul first said stick with the stock cam shafts (save money) or change up to Type R's. (about $580 a set)

Cam gears for finer tuning

I currently run Type B's with -7's for 325kws also.

But will be replacing with Type R's very soon. in250/ex250

The Type B's are lumpier, slightly laggier but fatter mid range. Very little benefit on stock/smaller turbo's IMHO. Just a lumpier sound.

Peak power is extremely minimal between Type A, B and R on -7's / -9's.

Any chance your going to do a before and after with your cam change ?

And for something different to the usual Garret upgrades :D

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/111085418388?nav=SEARCH

ballarat32 Rookie

ballarat32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I have a very, very stupid question. I'm relatively new to the world of serious modifying as I've only ever done an exhaust on a $500 hunk of junk. I am aware that when modifying a Skyline with better turbos/general upgrades that one of the things that ideally needs doing is fitting Z32 AFM's. I don't instinctively recognise parts (yet) so can someone please confirm if the pictured part is indeed a Z32 AFM as I suspect? If so that's going to make life much easier and cheaper having them already fitted.

post-134897-0-45059000-1403592856_thumb.jpg

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