Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think you may need to go external, although you can still mount the larger (2000hp) external pumps intank apparently.

With the G forces you are heading towards, you should be more worried about fuel surge... ;)

Lol. I want to do somthing along this line. But its way easier to just run a surge tank and as I plan to run 3 external pumps. 044's. Im planning on having the stock pump fill the surge tank and have it overflow back to the stock tank. Im hoping this will be good for about 600hp to the wheels.

Lol. I want to do somthing along this line. But its way easier to just run a surge tank and as I plan to run 3 external pumps. 044's. Im planning on having the stock pump fill the surge tank and have it overflow back to the stock tank. Im hoping this will be good for about 600hp to the wheels.

Would think 2 would be plenty. I have one 044 in my car and its way too noisy - I'd hate to have 3 of them - there are better (and cheaper) options these days - but I believe yours is a track only car (or drags).

Having a PWM controlled pump is critical in a road car, so as not to overheat the fuel. Plus, not many of the larger pumps like running 100% duty for long.

Using multiple pumps without some method of making sure they are working properly is a good way to lunch an engine. I run twin Walbros, one feeds each V6 rail, so if one fails, the engine just runs on 3 cylinders.

I have one 044 in my car and its way too noisy - I'd hate to have 3 of them - there are better (and cheaper) options these days

Totally agree, and they are only rated for 70 hours life span on e85 apparently.

That's what I bought, Fuelab seem to be one of the only brands to have the speed controller built in, and I am pretty sure they can be mounted intank with an appropriate filter. No idea why you would want to though, at that sort of power you need the surge tank anyway.

  • 1 month later...

I to am now looking at a Fuelab Prodigy pump, just a matter of which one is going to match my Weldon 2025-A closest, probably the 42401

Will mean I can run my PWM signal straight to it is simplify my wiring

Has anyone had one of these for any lenght of time ?

How quiet are they ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...