Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its running a pfc, and while it was tuned atleast three years back, it hasnt had any probs.

Im thinking ill have a play with some wiring and see if it changes idle at all... Just wish i had more time to play cars...

Yep, front of the head, sticks out about 50-70mm and has a red/black plug on it

Pull that out and see if it either fixes the problem, or makes the problem constant. If so then not so bad news, might just need a new VCT Solenoid/Switch (this thing your unplugging) or a minor re-tune just to touch up the VCT issue. Perhaps a mix of both

Start the car. Take a screw driver and put the metal tip against the injector. Put your ear to the end of the handle. You can hear the injector clicking, it's working. Go thru all 6 and learn what to listen for. This is the first step of diagnosing a bad injector. Step two is ohm resistance. With the motor off, unplug the wire clip to suspected faulty injector. Use a multi-meter to read ohms. You're looking for anything that is not in the 14 ohm area plus or minus 1.5 ohms. You'll use both prongs of the multi-reader and touch each of the injector electrical prongs. Polarity won't matter. This will tell you if the electrical coil is bad inside. Unfortunately they cannot be rebuilt and the whole injector will needed to be replaced. If replacing a single injector, it's wise to remove the rest and having them professionally cleaned and flow matched to the new one.

If you have side feed injectors (i.e. stock or aftermarket), yes they will be high impedance. If you have top feed injectors, you could be running lows. You can only run lows using an aftermarket computer. Stock ECU only runs high impedance. post-116132-14045372547201_thumb.jpg

These are Nismo 550cc side feed at high impedance.

post-116132-14045373666745_thumb.jpg

These are aftermarket top feed that can be high or low impedance depending on your personal engine build goals. Easy to spot. The stock side feeds are purple in color if I remember right.

Here is a website that can help you more with specs:

http://webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=64:skline-rb-standard-injectors&catid=45:wiring-electrical-a-ecu&Itemid=23

  • Like 1

Yep ive done the screw driver listen and also the swap, injectors are fine it seems so its electrical or vct, ill check it out further and find an answer...

Thanks for all your input it is much appreciated, just wish i could dedicate more time to it...

If you have side feed injectors (i.e. stock or aftermarket), yes they will be high impedance. If you have top feed injectors, you could be running lows. You can only run lows using an aftermarket computer. Stock ECU only runs high impedance. attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1404537253.775014.jpg

These are Nismo 550cc side feed at high impedance.

attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1404537364.267047.jpg

These are aftermarket top feed that can be high or low impedance depending on your personal engine build goals. Easy to spot. The stock side feeds are purple in color if I remember right.

Here is a website that can help you more with specs:

http://webbersrbguide.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=64:skline-rb-standard-injectors&catid=45:wiring-electrical-a-ecu&Itemid=23

Thanks for the link mate, very helpful :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok im still trying to sus this out, ive tried unplugging injectors one at a time and all make a slight difference to how it runs, ive changed spark plugs, removed coil plugs ones at a time each makes a difference to how it runs...

I havnt had a mechanic do anything on my car other than tune or fab work for years, normally do everything myself, but i may have to bite the bullet cause this has stumped me... Silly cause i feel i caused it.

Could an electrical issue cause by moving old heat and weather affected wiring harness...

It could be, but the filter isnt that old, and it was running fine before painting some parts...

But now that youve said that perhaps i should change it just to be sure...

Put a mesh 40 micron on there, all the blocked ones I have seen lately have been Ryco style paper ones. Never had an issue with stainless mesh filters.

It could be worth checking the contacts on your ECU plug. I had a similar issue with one injector not firing and it turned out to have a bad connection for that injector on the ECU plug.

I closed the female connection a little, plugged it back in and the problem hasn't resurfaced.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
×
×
  • Create New...