Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

Woot, on that flat smoky whitish face of the coil...

Yeah, that bit, directly behind that whitish stuff is the part of the coil that makes the spark and the pick up in the light will pick up the coil firing

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

This is right :thumbsup: I just got lazy and didn't want to do that every time i set the timing after removing the Cas, adjusting the cam gear the replacing Cas set timing taking car for drive then repeat :(

I think he meant the wire loop in the harness ?

OK just did what xklaba does - inductive pickup straight off no1 coil front face - 20-21 degrees on PFC commander AND harmonic balancer, so all good- this is the easiest n best method! Timings higher cos cars colder at 61 degrees water temp

The first time some weeks ago I didnt check the commander when setting cas to display 20 on harmonic balancer, I just assumed it would be 15 as thats what the idle always is on a hot engine, silly me didn't realize that on a slightly colder engine the commander would most likely have been displaying 20. And because 15 is the stock base timing that cemented the thought it WOULD be 15 displayed

Edited by rondofj

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

Dont worry, you won't understand it anyways.

Who is that cretin?

Cmon Bro, don't clog Rons thread. It's doing a fine job on its own.

If you want to have a chat do it via the PM I sent you, don't be a hero on here.

Ben

Timings done n dusted. Fuel economy with new O2 sensor = 21l/100kms, same driving pattern as usual nothing new.

Wideband with gauge on agenda, will that do on its own? Not wanting to get a datalogit etc, dont even have a laptop lolz but can borrow one. Option 2 is take to Unigroup n get an AFR log on dyno. Which is the better option?

Any other opinions on getting an afr log at the dyno vs getting own wideband with gauge?

And that intake pipe mods not happening, I've said that a few times already. For now that is

Haha. Tuner will be seeing it soon. And what do u mean by actual fault Scotty? Fault of the temp power loss during shifts? Yep the bov entry could be the fault of that..but who cares..not worth fixing somethin that accounts for barely 2% of my driving.

On a different note, see pics of my tacho/speedo combo in 5th, diff looks stock as far as I know and stock box of course. Something we spoke about once- pics to put it to rest.post-49401-14106061208116_thumb.jpgpost-49401-14106061389729_thumb.jpg

But that's what the whole topic was about! But now you know how to fix it, you don't want to fix it because now it's not a problem. Hmmmm at least you're consistent. You're funny.

Is that what the whole topic was about? Really.. Have you even read all the other problems n nigglings that have been fixed now? Now whos funny? Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...