Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

Woot, on that flat smoky whitish face of the coil...

Yeah, that bit, directly behind that whitish stuff is the part of the coil that makes the spark and the pick up in the light will pick up the coil firing

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

This is right :thumbsup: I just got lazy and didn't want to do that every time i set the timing after removing the Cas, adjusting the cam gear the replacing Cas set timing taking car for drive then repeat :(

I think he meant the wire loop in the harness ?

OK just did what xklaba does - inductive pickup straight off no1 coil front face - 20-21 degrees on PFC commander AND harmonic balancer, so all good- this is the easiest n best method! Timings higher cos cars colder at 61 degrees water temp

The first time some weeks ago I didnt check the commander when setting cas to display 20 on harmonic balancer, I just assumed it would be 15 as thats what the idle always is on a hot engine, silly me didn't realize that on a slightly colder engine the commander would most likely have been displaying 20. And because 15 is the stock base timing that cemented the thought it WOULD be 15 displayed

Edited by rondofj

Cheers for the explanation XKLABA.

Ron, I can't see how when using the plug lead method you don't get an accurate reading. That's exactly how the timing guns are designed to work.

Dont worry, you won't understand it anyways.

Who is that cretin?

Cmon Bro, don't clog Rons thread. It's doing a fine job on its own.

If you want to have a chat do it via the PM I sent you, don't be a hero on here.

Ben

Timings done n dusted. Fuel economy with new O2 sensor = 21l/100kms, same driving pattern as usual nothing new.

Wideband with gauge on agenda, will that do on its own? Not wanting to get a datalogit etc, dont even have a laptop lolz but can borrow one. Option 2 is take to Unigroup n get an AFR log on dyno. Which is the better option?

Any other opinions on getting an afr log at the dyno vs getting own wideband with gauge?

And that intake pipe mods not happening, I've said that a few times already. For now that is

Haha. Tuner will be seeing it soon. And what do u mean by actual fault Scotty? Fault of the temp power loss during shifts? Yep the bov entry could be the fault of that..but who cares..not worth fixing somethin that accounts for barely 2% of my driving.

On a different note, see pics of my tacho/speedo combo in 5th, diff looks stock as far as I know and stock box of course. Something we spoke about once- pics to put it to rest.post-49401-14106061208116_thumb.jpgpost-49401-14106061389729_thumb.jpg

But that's what the whole topic was about! But now you know how to fix it, you don't want to fix it because now it's not a problem. Hmmmm at least you're consistent. You're funny.

Is that what the whole topic was about? Really.. Have you even read all the other problems n nigglings that have been fixed now? Now whos funny? Lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...