Jump to content
SAU Community

Thinking About Getting A Na R32 Or R33

jake1296

By jake1296,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jake1296 Newbie

jake1296

Posted
Posted

thinking of buying an R32 or R33 whats the different's between them?

a turbo is out of the question because i'm on my P plates

so what are the non turbo's like is there enough power?

whats better the 2.0L or 2.5L?

and whats the fuel like on them?

it will be my daily car so will need it to be reliable and cheap to run.

thanks for any help much appreciated

Deza3000 Proficient

Deza3000

Posted
Posted (edited)

Enough power for what? No n/a skyline has enough power. As sinista stated, just get something else. BF/FG ford falcon xr6 is a good car to get on your P's. ZF auto transmission, insanely quick, will probably even beat a stock r34/r33 turbo...

Or better yet, if you really really want a turbo, get a Golf GTI, or a mitsubishi ralliart, both got the Dual clutch gear boxes, both turbo, both do 0-100 in 6 seconds, a simple catback exhaust, boost and tune gets you running in r34 GTR territory...

Also no skyline is cheap to run...ever haha

Edited by Deza3000
  • 4 weeks later...
jake1296 Newbie

jake1296

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for your reply's.don't really have the money for a BF or FG ford or something as new as 2011 turbos :/

i don't really wont to get a commodore like everyone else kinda wanted something different and i like the imports :)

A N/A R33 should have around the same power as a commodore wouldn't it???

anyway i want to keep my license lol

Deza3000 Proficient

Deza3000

Posted
Posted

thanks for your reply's.don't really have the money for a BF or FG ford or something as new as 2011 turbos :/

i don't really wont to get a commodore like everyone else kinda wanted something different and i like the imports :)

A N/A R33 should have around the same power as a commodore wouldn't it???

anyway i want to keep my license lol

Hahah commies are boring to drive :P

Yea N/A r33 is slightly quicker than a VT and VY (165kw) commodore, VZs (195kw) pull away after x amount of ks (depending on if they are molested with big wheels or not), VE will demolish a n/a r33.

Will beat a xr6 BA and below (4 speed autos). Anything ZF (or even 5speed) is cya later.

Those stats are just based on personal experience during my n/a r33 days.

33 is good car though, great for a to b. Got 550ks per tank, never had a problem with it. Turns heads, Obviouse reason i ditched it was for a turbo.

JezR31 Mentor

JezR31

Posted
Posted

If you're buying N/A, you want displacement and twincam, or a head that breathes a good amount of air. Look into N/A Supras or Zeds, you get 3L so you'll have a decent amount of torque. They actually go quite well. With a manual box they'll keep up with stockish GTST's.

N/A rb20's and rb25's are just a disappointment really, even rb25det's are nothing special by today's standards. On paper they seem alright, but you'll struggle to keep up with a new 4cyl that can rev.

After driving many R33's, turbo and N/A. I would say definitely look at a supra before you make up your mind. Much better car IMO.

Super Drager Mentor

Super Drager

Posted
Posted

If you're buying N/A, you want displacement and twincam, or a head that breathes a good amount of air. Look into N/A Supras or Zeds, you get 3L so you'll have a decent amount of torque. They actually go quite well. With a manual box they'll keep up with stockish GTST's.

N/A rb20's and rb25's are just a disappointment really, even rb25det's are nothing special by today's standards. On paper they seem alright, but you'll struggle to keep up with a new 4cyl that can rev.

After driving many R33's, turbo and N/A. I would say definitely look at a supra before you make up your mind. Much better car IMO.

Pretty much this, my NA Z32 was eating standard GTSt's at WSID especially R32's. Mine ran 14.5 @ 97.6MPH with just a catback and pod filter, would have been much quicker on ET streets + a nistune.

jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

Buying a slow car just to be different (which skylines aren't anyway) isn't a good idea.

Get a car. Any car. Save for good car later when you can drive it.

first and foremost- probably this. Especially if you are in a state with the laws preventing turbo ownership on P's or whatever it is. You guys have madly inflated N/A skyline prices.

Otherwise, the N/A R33 is your best bet (2.5L > 2.0L any day. Also a newer car). The Type S model in particular which saw you with the turbo bodykit as well as a LSD and slightly more power.

They are particularly great to drive if they have some aftermarket suspension. Also the motor is nice and sounds beautiful with a cat-back exhaust. This is the model of NA R33 I had with such mods and I really enjoyed it.

No they aren't that powerful but they aren't slow either.

No they aren't good on fuel, especially for the power they put out.

Wagzy Enthusiast

Wagzy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey man, I'm in the same situation as you. I'm on my p's, looking for a Skyline to buy. Many people say save your money and wait till your off your p's, but screw that, that's a long wait. Just buy your car, enjoy it while your on your p's and when you want to sell it you'll find another person on their p's looking to do the same thing.

I saved up $6,000, got a $6,000 loan and I'm about to buy a R34 25GT. I'll drive that for around 3years then eventually sell it and buy a 25GT-T. (R34's are worth more but you can sell it without to much loss compared to an R33, not sure about R32's though) Go for what you want, otherwise you won't be happy.

Edited by Wagzy
  • 1 month later...
Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

I'm on my P's and i own an R32 Skyline with the RB25DE motor from an R33 - However just built a turbo motor for the swap at the end of the year

It is by no means powerful, or fast compared to any newer car like a falcodore or any euro which is more or less expected..
I have the turbo bits like brakes and diff so it's a blast at the track but on the street it does lack power

In the end; I wanted a skyline, so i bought a skyline, and i love my skyline. Just buy what you want and enjoy it, do what you want to do

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...