Jump to content
SAU Community

Wtb - Parts - Car


GTR-N1
 Share

Recommended Posts

#@scotty nm35

I had the diff seals leak in my car, general wear and tear.
Usual problems generally happen to the AYC, they start whining due to improper servicing or wrong oil used. AYC needs to be serviced/flushed every 20,000ks as per mitsubishi. The AYC is part of the rear diff, both requiring their own set of oils. Keep an eye on the reservoir from time to time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oil-evo-4-10.pdf

Use the attachment as a guide and you'll be fine. Shouldn't have whine problems :)

In my opinion the transfer case is what takes the most load, considering that its a FWD setup AWD, unlike the GTRs and STIs. So i would just keep the rear diff the way it is, service as and when due and it should be fine.

Edited by Deza3000
Link to comment
Share on other sites

WTB, evo 7/8/9 super-AYC diff in good condition.

Only the evo 8/9 had super AYC, evo 7 has the standard AYC, You could get it straight from mitsubishi dealer, they distribute evo 8 9 and 10 spare parts from body kits to turbos, might cost ya an arm and a leg though haha.

Edited by Deza3000
Link to comment
Share on other sites

#@pretX
Yea true you would think that aye, doubt it though. Just did a wiki search on evos as well, apparently the USDM evo 9s dont even have AYC! Just an active rear limited slip diff, strange.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • don't do. Fricken typos. Make me look like the sheeple.
    • I could show you guys photos of wrap having been removed properly, and where the wrap was removed, paint underneath is perfect. Sections of the vehicle didn't have wrap on it, and in those areas, the paint work is destroyed because of how long it had been sitting in the hot QLD sun for many many many years. Wrap even still looked decent. Good quality wrap, and removing it properly shouldn't rip off the paint work, unless the paintwork was already shot to pieces before hand.
    • Any write ups on replacing the window motor?  I've never messed with them (or window regulators) before.   Ever since I've had the car, the driver window would roll down just fine, but most often I'd have the try a few times to get it to go up.  As soon as it started to go up, it always goes up smoothly and quietly.  Seemed like a bad switch.  But now, its stuck in the fully down position and won't come back up.  I get =12/-12V coming out of the relay/amp when pressing the switch up/down.  So the switch and amp are working.  Just a bad motor.  I've also applied 12V directly to the motor and nada.   Any help on replacing the motor?  Can the glass and regulator stay in, and only replace the motor?  Or not possible?  Thanks!!!
    • You are wrong. That's just Whiteline going along with the incorrect slanguage of the sheeple userbase. They are only correctly known as anti-roll bars. They are only incorrectly known as swaybars. They do do anything to prevent "sway". The swaybars that are fitted to trailler hitches do prevent sway. In the trailer. And they do not look like anti-roll bars. So, take your incorrect infopinion away.
×
×
  • Create New...