Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To the engine

That should be 240rwkws, our billet ATR43ss15 will do the job nicely. You can check out my thread or site under ATR28, the G2 and SS15 SR20det result should be very close to the RB20det in terms of response.

Start reading books before you start anything. If you don't understand basic engine combustion principles then you'll kill the car

I read up more on engine combustion and engines with turbos. I understand the basic principle, iginition, timing,fuel, air. I also read how the manufactorers tune cars from the factory to try to stay as close to the 14.7.1 air/fuel ratio settings to keep the car from running rich or lean.

Is this one of the values that a tuner tries to keep when tuning a car?

Do you know where I can get good imformation about what values I need to look for when tuning?

14.7 will cause engine explosion under load. Ona turbo you will need to be richer than 12:1. 14.7 will only work at low loads and cruise.

It is a big subject. There is plenty of info out there on how to tune, but if you are that much of a novice, do not even consider trying to tune your car until you have been around tuning and tuners and done a lot of reading and so on and so forth for quite a long time.

Even so under 12:1 isn't the magic number.. some motors like richer AFRs at max VE to keep knock levels down and then AFRs can even lean out to 12.5 AFR as load drops.

Not to mention richer AFRs will promote more torque where as leaner AFRs will promote more power... but say you're running low timing at peak torque you also want richer AFRs to keep things cooler on the exhaust side.

I really really suggest you pay a tuner to tune your car before you lunch a motor.

14.7 will cause engine explosion under load. Ona turbo you will need to be richer than 12:1. 14.7 will only work at low loads and cruise.

It is a big subject. There is plenty of info out there on how to tune, but if you are that much of a novice, do not even consider trying to tune your car until you have been around tuning and tuners and done a lot of reading and so on and so forth for quite a long time.

ok

Even so under 12:1 isn't the magic number.. some motors like richer AFRs at max VE to keep knock levels down and then AFRs can even lean out to 12.5 AFR as load drops.

Not to mention richer AFRs will promote more torque where as leaner AFRs will promote more power... but say you're running low timing at peak torque you also want richer AFRs to keep things cooler on the exhaust side.

I really really suggest you pay a tuner to tune your car before you lunch a motor.

ok

Good starting point on AFRs.. short and sweet article.. please note this applies to gasoline only.. if you try and use those AFRs with E85 you might end up misfiring

http://tunertools.com/articles/AFR-Tuning.asp

I'm still pretty new to E85 and only tuned 2x so far, however I find E85 likes to be leaner rather than richer.. I tend to get phantom knock & misfires as the AFRs drop.

Good starting point on AFRs.. short and sweet article.. please note this applies to gasoline only.. if you try and use those AFRs with E85 you might end up misfiring

http://tunertools.com/articles/AFR-Tuning.asp

I'm still pretty new to E85 and only tuned 2x so far, however I find E85 likes to be leaner rather than richer.. I tend to get phantom knock & misfires as the AFRs drop.

Thank you

Rb20dets are similar to a S13 SR20det. The ideal turbine will be some thing off a .64 rear. Which our ATR43SS1 and 1.5 are made very specifically for Rb20det that has the OEM bolton pattern.

Which would be better, this or your high flow service?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG is has not responded to my emails so far after purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
    • I would say no, why, because my daughter, who also lives in Goulburn, hasn't recommended us going there Pity, as we miss all the German joints around in Sydney, actually, the restaurants are the only thing I really miss about Sydney, and a special mention to Ishibanboshi at Bondi Junction, their Kara-age Don is heart cloggingly deliciousness (always added a special boiled egg...or 2) 😋 
×
×
  • Create New...