Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Gotta a question, my R33 has had brand new genuine nissan coil packs in it. The other day it developed a miss on boost so I thought it was the plugs since they were nearing the second oil chance/10000km. I changed the spark plugs to a fresh new set, gapped to .833 and took it for a drive only to find the miss is still there. It takes effect at about 4000rpm as soon as boost is ramped up. I run an SS2 on 15psi. Low down and cruising the car is fine, just getting weak spark. It will free rev to 7000rpm without an issue. I can close the gap a little tighter but really want to avoid this.

The coil packs were brand new and about 3 years old. The car is always run with the coil pack cover removed. Would my better option be a set of spitfires or have OEM's become more affordable? Are the Spitfires improved over the standard coils? Will they last longer and eliminate the need to gap the plugs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446696-how-long-should-coil-packs-last/
Share on other sites

Why are you sure is due to weak spark and not a boost leak?

I'm not, really. I assume its spark related since the symptoms are exactly the same as when one of my yellow jackets was on its way out. I have no issues building boost, its just the 4krpm barrier, it farts and carries on. I will take the whole thing apart this weekend and see if I can see any issues with the coils, I'll regap the plugs, I'll extend the spring in the coils a little more and I'll go over for boost leaks.

Can I just test from the turbo inlet all the way back or should I disconnect from the TB, block it off then test from the turbo? It was a kick in the balls to hear it miss when I took it out last week, I was really hoping it was just the plugs. I think I should isolate the intake from the engine otherwise the air will just piss out the engine.

Edited by SargeRX8

Just did a intake pressure test. Only place which started squeezing air out was the oil filler hole in the top of the engine. I could not hear any hissing anywhere else around the engine bay. I took all the plugs out, checked the gaps and put it all back together. The miss is still there on boost. Looks like I might have a dud coil. I'll be ordering another set of OEM's. Ah well.

unfortunately I don't think there's any way to tell. Bought mine on ebay for $330 and assumed fakes at that price. Compared them to my original ones and they were physically identical in every way, and arrived in nissan boxes. Mine are still working fine but who knows

Yeah my second set I just bought off eBay for the exact same price from a seller in Melbourne with relatively good reputation. He also sells Z32, not genuine, listed as aftermarket parts. The coil packs are listed as Genuine Nissan made in Japan components.

When they arrive, I'll be trying to pinpoint the faulty coil using the new ones, one by one. When I find the one causing the fault, I will dissect it and also dissect one of my original nissans which is no good and comparing the internals. Even genuine components could be prone to failure.

The only thing which would make me iffy is when sellers sell oem components, not listed as genuine and come on oem packaging.

I'm not dissatisfied with the performance of my current coils. I got a good 3 years about of them, about 45000km. The previous yellow jackets I had lasted about half a year.

Edited by SargeRX8

New plugs new coils and still cant get past 4000rpm. Ive checked for boost leaks and found nothing. Ill try again on saturday for leaks.

What else can cause this? My coil loom looks like shit. Broken clips and what not. Nothing in my car has changed. This came about all of sudden about 3 weeks ago. I dont think my coils had anything to do with it. Unless my testing has fouled my plugs which isn't likely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...