Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK, I had the idler bolt snap on my Rb25det Neo, which threw the cam belt on the free way at 110kph. As a result, both sets on valves are bent. yes all 24.

So engine is in bits, and valves are out, but here it is...... Where can I find replacement valves other than Nissan. The place where the head is cant source them, and well the ***** on ebay say they can get them, but that was over 2 weeks ago. They arn't the same as a normal rb25det, as mine is a NEO, they seem to be a different size to others.

Is this normal?

Inlet About 104mm head 30.4mm tip 6mm shaft dia 6mm all approx. as I don't have verner

exhaust about 98mm head 29mm tip 4mm shaft dia 6mm

Nissan want, inlet $35 ea exhaust $59 ea

With all the rb's out there, there must be someone who does them cheaper the nissan

Need help pls

Edited by Daffy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447150-valves/
Share on other sites

Erics performance parts in the US sold me valve guides at a good price. They have a fair bit of stuff. Cant say I ever looked at valves but worth a try

As suggested though, getting a second hand head and robbing them out of there would be cheapest

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447150-valves/#findComment-7372020
Share on other sites

Yer I been looking for a 2nd head, but no one has 1, or wants to part with it cheap or wants the same price as the valves....

The normal rb25 heads are different to the NEO. The only thing that might fit on the both of them is the exhaust manifold. Rest of hardware would have to be changed.

I bought the ones from ebay over 2 weeks ago, and they are having "problems from there supplier" getting them. Now Im in a dispute trying to get my money back and got to look else ware. i got to wait for money to get back before I can buy new ones atm.

Is there a link to Amayama Wolverine so I can check that out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447150-valves/#findComment-7372177
Share on other sites

amayama.com or just call kudosmotorsport and ask Andrew for a price. I would try Andrew first as his communication is so much better but both should be able to come through with the goods in around 2 weeks.

Also here is a link to amayama http://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3953-rb25det/engine/130/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447150-valves/#findComment-7372310
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...