Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well if you are trying to market on SAU form, you will need to do what I did.

Send us your turbo and get it high flowed, :yes:

Get all supporting mods.

Then get your car tuned on P98 fuel with and without additive.

Post up your results that contains Power, Boost, Torque, AFR as well as your ignition advance table before and after.

If it did make more power by then, we would understand more about this product, what it does, and benefits in comparison to other alternatives.

I reckon you would see similar gains with an amount of e85 I the tank.

Just enough to lean off mixtures nicely. Maybe 5 bucks of e85 would do it. How's that compare to the ozygen?

i'm just sharing what I got from using someone's product...

Before and after additive, power, torque and AFR graphs are already shown. It works as advertised :)

no variables to confuse or mislead results. Stock ecu. So if you modified your car like getting your turbocharger high flowed...the improvement gains could be more... ;)

You did 20 dyno runs yes?

There is 20 variables right there.

Over the course of 20 pulls how much did the air temp change?

would dyno runs be considered as variables? or number of times of repeating the experiment to get consistent results so as to eliminate the outlying (is that what they are called?) data?

i have to say we did not monitor the intake air temp but right after the last run, oil temp was 91 deg, water temp was 81 deg, intake air temp was 28 deg.

You can't just dump in the additive to a stock car, print out the best results and assume it actually works.

if it does boost the octane level, especially for a turbocharged engine, lets say at 20psi of boost, by keeping the AFR constant, you will be able to add in extra degrees of ignition advance without gain knock. just like as if you are using E85 or C15 fuel.

That extra power made by additional ignition advance will be the differences in fuel advantage.

  • Like 1

If the fuel is more oxygenated it will make more power, few things you could answer are how much does it cost and why not just tune your car on 98, drain it, then retune on that fuel and see the increase?

You can't just dump in the additive to a stock car, print out the best results and assume it actually works.

why not? pardon my questioning but car is currently stock... so all things equal, adding this product gave me 3% increase overall....doesnt that mean that it works? if i used a modified car, disbelievers will then say that maybe the car's timing, fuelling etc was modified inbetween runs. In my situation... nothing was touched, nothing can be adjusted cos it was a stock ECU. So isnt that's fair testing?

print out best results? would a stock car give such varying results over 20 runs? if nothing is changed....would a worst run and a best run have such huge difference?

If the fuel is more oxygenated it will make more power, few things you could answer are how much does it cost and why not just tune your car on 98, drain it, then retune on that fuel and see the increase?

based on what I know,...its retailing at $60 for a 1 litre can and that can treat up to 65 litres.

why not tune my car on 98 drain it then retune? would love to but my car is stock...will do it again when i have all my mods but time and money are the deciding factors...

plus.. if i did that... wouldn't people then attribute the performance increase to the tune and not the race fuel?

Although having said that, my friend has dyno graphs of R35s on normal 98 without tuning compared to tune+additive.... and the increase is even more.

But if people are already skeptical of 3% increase in a stock car... would they accept a 18.8% improvement?

Hasn't it already been discussed that the small power increase may be due to the tune being leaner (as there is oxygen in the fuel, resulting in more air:less fuel AFR due to injecting the same amount pump fuel vs fuel with additive?)

The initial dyno graph has thrown me a bit though, it looks to me like the AFR's were richer with the additive when it made more power. I might have to go back and have a look but this doesnt make sense to me if it is the case. Octane booster shouldnt change the AFR, just make it possible to run more timing

I'm sorry to join the sceptical people in here, but I can't see the power gain (if it can be proven to be worthwhile) being worth $60 a tank. UNLESS it ends up being as benefical as E85, but I remain sceptical

why not? pardon my questioning but car is currently stock... so all things equal, adding this product gave me 3% increase overall....doesnt that mean that it works? if i used a modified car, disbelievers will then say that maybe the car's timing, fuelling etc was modified inbetween runs. In my situation... nothing was touched, nothing can be adjusted cos it was a stock ECU. So isnt that's fair testing?

print out best results? would a stock car give such varying results over 20 runs? if nothing is changed....would a worst run and a best run have such huge difference?

based on what I know,...its retailing at $60 for a 1 litre can and that can treat up to 65 litres.

why not tune my car on 98 drain it then retune? would love to but my car is stock...will do it again when i have all my mods but time and money are the deciding factors...

plus.. if i did that... wouldn't people then attribute the performance increase to the tune and not the race fuel?

Although having said that, my friend has dyno graphs of R35s on normal 98 without tuning compared to tune+additive.... and the increase is even more.

But if people are already skeptical of 3% increase in a stock car... would they accept a 18.8% improvement?

You don't seem to understand what i'm saying, tune your car as hard as you can on 98, then do the same on the additive. If this fuel is so much better you will be able to advance the ignition over regular 98. The whole point of a "better fuel" is to be able to run more ignition advance over regular fuel. Note the changes that it allows you to make(boost/timing/afr) and post here again, instead of just putting into a stock car. I could run E85 in a stock car and it would make shit for power if i could even get it to start on a stock tune, but we all know it would make loads more tuned properly for the fuel.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...