Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well if you are trying to market on SAU form, you will need to do what I did.

Send us your turbo and get it high flowed, :yes:

Get all supporting mods.

Then get your car tuned on P98 fuel with and without additive.

Post up your results that contains Power, Boost, Torque, AFR as well as your ignition advance table before and after.

If it did make more power by then, we would understand more about this product, what it does, and benefits in comparison to other alternatives.

I reckon you would see similar gains with an amount of e85 I the tank.

Just enough to lean off mixtures nicely. Maybe 5 bucks of e85 would do it. How's that compare to the ozygen?

i'm just sharing what I got from using someone's product...

Before and after additive, power, torque and AFR graphs are already shown. It works as advertised :)

no variables to confuse or mislead results. Stock ecu. So if you modified your car like getting your turbocharger high flowed...the improvement gains could be more... ;)

You did 20 dyno runs yes?

There is 20 variables right there.

Over the course of 20 pulls how much did the air temp change?

would dyno runs be considered as variables? or number of times of repeating the experiment to get consistent results so as to eliminate the outlying (is that what they are called?) data?

i have to say we did not monitor the intake air temp but right after the last run, oil temp was 91 deg, water temp was 81 deg, intake air temp was 28 deg.

You can't just dump in the additive to a stock car, print out the best results and assume it actually works.

if it does boost the octane level, especially for a turbocharged engine, lets say at 20psi of boost, by keeping the AFR constant, you will be able to add in extra degrees of ignition advance without gain knock. just like as if you are using E85 or C15 fuel.

That extra power made by additional ignition advance will be the differences in fuel advantage.

  • Like 1

If the fuel is more oxygenated it will make more power, few things you could answer are how much does it cost and why not just tune your car on 98, drain it, then retune on that fuel and see the increase?

You can't just dump in the additive to a stock car, print out the best results and assume it actually works.

why not? pardon my questioning but car is currently stock... so all things equal, adding this product gave me 3% increase overall....doesnt that mean that it works? if i used a modified car, disbelievers will then say that maybe the car's timing, fuelling etc was modified inbetween runs. In my situation... nothing was touched, nothing can be adjusted cos it was a stock ECU. So isnt that's fair testing?

print out best results? would a stock car give such varying results over 20 runs? if nothing is changed....would a worst run and a best run have such huge difference?

If the fuel is more oxygenated it will make more power, few things you could answer are how much does it cost and why not just tune your car on 98, drain it, then retune on that fuel and see the increase?

based on what I know,...its retailing at $60 for a 1 litre can and that can treat up to 65 litres.

why not tune my car on 98 drain it then retune? would love to but my car is stock...will do it again when i have all my mods but time and money are the deciding factors...

plus.. if i did that... wouldn't people then attribute the performance increase to the tune and not the race fuel?

Although having said that, my friend has dyno graphs of R35s on normal 98 without tuning compared to tune+additive.... and the increase is even more.

But if people are already skeptical of 3% increase in a stock car... would they accept a 18.8% improvement?

Hasn't it already been discussed that the small power increase may be due to the tune being leaner (as there is oxygen in the fuel, resulting in more air:less fuel AFR due to injecting the same amount pump fuel vs fuel with additive?)

The initial dyno graph has thrown me a bit though, it looks to me like the AFR's were richer with the additive when it made more power. I might have to go back and have a look but this doesnt make sense to me if it is the case. Octane booster shouldnt change the AFR, just make it possible to run more timing

I'm sorry to join the sceptical people in here, but I can't see the power gain (if it can be proven to be worthwhile) being worth $60 a tank. UNLESS it ends up being as benefical as E85, but I remain sceptical

why not? pardon my questioning but car is currently stock... so all things equal, adding this product gave me 3% increase overall....doesnt that mean that it works? if i used a modified car, disbelievers will then say that maybe the car's timing, fuelling etc was modified inbetween runs. In my situation... nothing was touched, nothing can be adjusted cos it was a stock ECU. So isnt that's fair testing?

print out best results? would a stock car give such varying results over 20 runs? if nothing is changed....would a worst run and a best run have such huge difference?

based on what I know,...its retailing at $60 for a 1 litre can and that can treat up to 65 litres.

why not tune my car on 98 drain it then retune? would love to but my car is stock...will do it again when i have all my mods but time and money are the deciding factors...

plus.. if i did that... wouldn't people then attribute the performance increase to the tune and not the race fuel?

Although having said that, my friend has dyno graphs of R35s on normal 98 without tuning compared to tune+additive.... and the increase is even more.

But if people are already skeptical of 3% increase in a stock car... would they accept a 18.8% improvement?

You don't seem to understand what i'm saying, tune your car as hard as you can on 98, then do the same on the additive. If this fuel is so much better you will be able to advance the ignition over regular 98. The whole point of a "better fuel" is to be able to run more ignition advance over regular fuel. Note the changes that it allows you to make(boost/timing/afr) and post here again, instead of just putting into a stock car. I could run E85 in a stock car and it would make shit for power if i could even get it to start on a stock tune, but we all know it would make loads more tuned properly for the fuel.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
×
×
  • Create New...