Replacing R34 Diff Bushes What's Involved

[V28VX37]

I had a workshop look over the car to inspect a clunk in the driveline as described here.

Apparently it's a combination of the following:

• Shot diff bushes (upper & lower)
• Worn tie rod ends
• Worn ball joints
• HICAS - needs a lock bar

Apparently the diff bushes is a subframe out job, is this right? I also read that it's a prick of a thing to do in an R33, is it the same for R34's?

Is there any hope to do this at home or too hard basket? I've replaced a few of metal sleeved factory bushes before and getting them out sucks bigtime

If it's a workshop thing, what's the approximate labour?

Should I do subframe bushes at the same time? Apparently there's a whole fruit platter you can chuck in there, no idea what them pineapples do...

[GTSBoy]

There is almost no difference between R33 and R34 below the floorpan.

[hardsteppa]

Yes u should def do subframe bushes while subframe is out, If u end up removing it. Tierod ends on rear aren't a moving part and nothing on them to wear, so would assume they mean the hicas balljoints in the knuckle. The front 2diff bushes are cheap for urethane ones & are piece o piss to do, would do that first before ripping out subframe.

[V28VX37]

Thanks guys. Do I have it right that the front bushes are pressed onto the diff, and the rear ones are in the subframe?

The front bushes definitely look easier to do, provided that one can get the OEM ones out (steel sleeves suck)..

[V28VX37]

  On 20/09/2014 at 12:12 AM, V28VX37 said:

Thanks guys. Do I have it right that the front bushes are pressed onto the diff, and the rear ones are in the subframe?

Stopped being lazy and had a look, this is indeed the case.

Hey has anyone used a 'bush puller' tool that would allow removing the rear bushes on the car, without dropping the subframe?

Something that pulls out the steel sleeve too so that you don't have to resort to the hack saw method?

I'm thinking something along these lines:

or

[hardsteppa]

Front bushes on mine, just went out/ by hand.

[89CAL]

Cheaper to just buy a bit of threaded bar, some nuts and washers to suit and just use a socket that is the right size to fit on the outside of the Bush without hitting the frame etc

[zoomzoom]

  On 20/09/2014 at 4:23 AM, 89CAL said:

Cheaper to just buy a bit of threaded bar, some nuts and washers to suit and just use a socket that is the right size to fit on the outside of the Bush without hitting the frame etc

Don't bother, threaded puller tools have specially hardened threads. A regular piece of threaded rod will strip before a pressed in shell gives way.

[89CAL]

Well I dunno, get a long high tensile bolt and try it then?

Probably cost $20 max at a local bolt shop for 1 bolt, 1 nut, 3 or so washers

It was just an idea, save going and spending $100 on a puller kit to pull out a few bushes

[V28VX37]

  On 20/09/2014 at 4:23 AM, 89CAL said:

Cheaper to just buy a bit of threaded bar, some nuts and washers to suit and just use a socket that is the right size to fit on the outside of the Bush without hitting the frame etc

  On 20/09/2014 at 9:27 AM, zoomzoom said:

Don't bother, threaded puller tools have specially hardened threads. A regular piece of threaded rod will strip before a pressed in shell gives way.

Thanks guys.

What I'm really trying to save is hundreds worth of labour that it would cost to pull out both the diff and the subframe. If there's a tool or technique to get the upper bushes and steel sleeves out with the subframe still in the car that'd be ace, as I might be able to do it myself.

I took some photos of the four bushes, the upper ones are in a pretty tight spot but once the diff is out there might just be enough space out front to fit a puller tool in.

Also you can kind of see the steel sleeves in pics 3 and 4.

Overview

1.

2.

3.

4.

4. (front side)

[89CAL]

My front ones came out easily and I got the rears out by cutting them with an air hacksaw then knocking them out. Is cut through the rubber and just enough of the steel to split it in 2 halves without damaging the subframe

I just let the diff hang down. Didnt even remove it fully so I didn't have to take the exhaust off

[V28VX37]

  On 20/09/2014 at 10:44 AM, 89CAL said:

My front ones came out easily and I got the rears out by cutting them with an air hacksaw then knocking them out. Is cut through the rubber and just enough of the steel to split it in 2 halves without damaging the subframe

I just let the diff hang down. Didnt even remove it fully so I didn't have to take the exhaust off

Awesome, great to hear it can be done! Which bushes did you end up putting in? I'm having a look on fleabay and the rear bushes seem a bit tricky to find...

[GTSBoy]

eBay is not the only place to buy stuff.

[V28VX37]

Yeah I've looked at SPF and Whiteline so far too, looks like there's a couple of different types for both upper and lower diff bushes so happy to take recommendations.

With HICAS, it looks like there's a couple of ways to approach it:

• Typical HICAS lock bar that retains OEM steering rack ends and ball joints
• HICAS eliminator kit that removes HICAS completely and replaces all OEM items

The eliminator kit is more exxy but my ball joints are worn and if you factor them in it's pretty much even - so I'm guessing I'm better off going with this option?

Are there any downsides to the eliminator kit over lock bar? I'm guessing either option will throw up HICAS warning light in the dash?

[GTSBoy]

Eliminator kit is the only sensible option.

Unless you take the even more sensible but massive option of replacing the entire rear subframe with a non-HICAS unit like I did. Best way, but a lot of work. But if the subframe is coming out to do bushes anyway......

[89CAL]

My rear diff bushes are nolethane brand I think. They were the only ones I could find at the time. I think white line do them now

[V28VX37]

Thanks again.

I'm just reading up on how to remove the ball joints and it sounds like a complete PITA. I think I'd rather take it to the shop if I have to pull the uprights or the subframe out, way too much work... Apparently someone has used a puller like this for the ball joints, not sure where to find one though:

[zoomzoom]

Im not sure about HICAS ones, but the regular ball joints in the lower control arms are quite easy even with a 6 ton press. You just need the right bits of scrap metal pipe to press the body of the ball joint out (not the moving pin), while bracing the arms.

Theres no doubt what you're planning is a lot of work, so make sure to get reliable quotes. You might reconsider taking it to a workshop when you get the quote, even if it is a lot of work.

Also make sure to read the instructions for whatever bushes you're using. Some may require you to leave the metal shell inside the subframe, so that may work to your advantage.

[V28VX37]

Apparently on the 300ZX the HICAS ball joint can be done using a Pitman Puller Arm similar to what I posted above: How to install Hicas ball joint with out a press

I'll need to measure the arm to see if I can find a right sized puller.

I also found this 26pc Press & Pull Sleeve Kit from Radum that might work for the upper diff bushings in the subframe:

[V28VX37]

Bushing options for the diff below. There doesn't seem to be much difference between the lower (front) ones, however the upper (rear) ones from SuperPro are quite different to the other two - which ones are better?

Lower bushing (diff front side)

SuperPro SPF2637K $60.50 (via Kudos)


Whiteline W93047Diff $58.85


Nolathane 49161 $69.99 (eBay)



Upper bushing (diff rear side)

SuperPro SPF3775K $ ???

Instructions

Whiteline KDT913Diff $161.70

Instructions

Nolathane 49162 $138.88