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Hey folks,

Did a bit of a search but un sure on this one. I wan to adjust the camber on front and rear of my R33. I may have to buy rear and front arm sets separately due to budget. Question is, which ones should I do first? Should I get the rears and drive around for a while and then get the fronts? Or other way round?

Ideally all would be done together Im guessing.

cheers

Amir

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Wow super quick response, is your GTR that fast? To adjust camber would be the obvious reason here Michael. Did some research and talked to a few people and the consensus is that I should run some negative camber on the track.

Will look at some fronts, do you have any suggestions re brands/suppliers mate?

Cheers for the response

Amir

It is that fast. It's the driver that's slow haha.

So if you're hitting the track then yes, some camber arms are a good idea but unless you have an idea of what to set them at I suggest getting a wheel alignment when they're installed.

The rear only needs around 1 degree or so the standard gear should be fine to start off with.

I run Hardrace in my car from JustJap but it really depends on your budget.

Usually the rear is done to reduce camber and therefore tyre wear.

The front on the other hand is to increase camber to reduce understeer.

So if for the road - the rear.

If for the track the front.

Or just do both at the same time and save yourself the cost of a wheel alignment.

  • Like 1

Cheers guys. Will concentrate on the fronts for now. Michael, I also want to run the hard race gear but spoke to them recently and they only have rears.

Any idea where I can get some decent value for money adjustable fronts?

Cheers

Check out GKTech, they are producing some fronts soon I think.

Yeah but wont be ready for a couple of months. I need something sooner. There seems to be 2 different shapes/styles. What is the difference? I think this has been canvassed in another thread but the pictures arent working so not sure if who ever posted was referring to the same thing:

Ones that look like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Adjustable-Front-Upper-Camber-Arms-Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTR-GTST-300zx-Z32-/161416313445?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2595297a65

and ones that look like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Upper-Camber-Arms-for-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTR-GTT-R33-GTR-GTS-T-/321109392159?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac39c7b1f

Any idea?

Cheers for the help peeps

Amir

Yeah but wont be ready for a couple of months. I need something sooner. There seems to be 2 different shapes/styles. What is the difference? I think this has been canvassed in another thread but the pictures arent working so not sure if who ever posted was referring to the same thing:

Ones that look like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Adjustable-Front-Upper-Camber-Arms-Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTR-GTST-300zx-Z32-/161416313445?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2595297a65

and ones that look like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Upper-Camber-Arms-for-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTR-GTT-R33-GTR-GTS-T-/321109392159?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac39c7b1f

Any idea?

Cheers for the help peeps

Amir

I'm running the second type (blue separate arms) in my R34, same for R33. You'll notice that the first type (one part) is for R32 only.

Also adjusting the separate arms takes time as you'll need to take the wheel off and undo the top bolt on the upright for bigger adjustments. Just be prepared to pay more for wheel alignment, that's all.

  • Like 1

Cusco is good gear - there are others but don't buy any unknown brand cheap stuff - not an area where you should economise. If you put on about 3deg neg (front) for the track you will immediately have to adjust your toe in and preferably get a wheel alignment. Just wind the stock rear adjusters to the max and that should be fine for a while.

With rear arms the brand probably has no bearing on how 'reliable' the arm will be. The spherical bearing or rose joint can be replaced locally from a cbc bearings or alike cheap and easily. I had a set of rear arms in the rear of my 32 for 2 years, bearings started to get loose and replacement was just 14dollars each.

I use my adjustable rear camber arms to dial out camber for the street, I couldnt get less then -1.2deg camber with stock arms and adjustment.

Thanks for all the info guys, that's why these forums are so good. I'll look around for some decent front arms and get it aligned etc. Any idea if we have any australian suppliers of cusco and other decent brands.

Cheers heaps fellaz

Amir

  • 5 years later...

Thread revival.

This may have been covered before...

The rear of my 34 GTR is roughly 340mm centre of wheel to guard. Has more negative camber than what i would like. I bought some ZSS rear camber arms (hardened rubber, not pillow ball). Not looking to do front arms yet as it's a street car.

People say i should also do traction rods as i may get bump steer/ axle tramp?

Is this a necessity, or would you be able to dial enough toe with the standard arm?

P.S - i did look at Cusco/ GKtech camber arms etc but most were pillowball. I was looking to keep stock like wear and tear and less legal drama.

23 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:

People say i should also do traction rods as i may get bump steer/ axle tramp?

Is this a necessity,

Yes yes yes. You change the camber arm length without changing the tow arm and you will change the bump steer curve, and not for the better.

It has nothing to do with toe angle setting. It has to do with how the toe angle changes as the wheel goes up and down.

 

  • Thanks 1

I might also point out that unless you are prepared to make a bump steer gauge and learn how to use it, and sink many hours into playing with the settings, OR, you pay a really good wheel aligner (with the requisite measuring equipment) to spend a lot of time on it, you can't just change the traction arm length at random without potentially making it a lot worse than doing nothing at all.

On 2/22/2020 at 4:53 PM, GTSBoy said:

I might also point out that unless you are prepared to make a bump steer gauge and learn how to use it, and sink many hours into playing with the settings, OR, you pay a really good wheel aligner (with the requisite measuring equipment) to spend a lot of time on it, you can't just change the traction arm length at random without potentially making it a lot worse than doing nothing at all.

I'll be leaving it to the professionals. I have Heasmans and East Coast Suspension all within 30 mins of me.

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