Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

10641098_10153469745394386_4661599027836

The SAU Vic 2014 Go Kart Series is run the last Sunday every 2nd month at several different Karting venues around Melbourne. This year has 3 rounds of racing with trophies/prizes awarded to the top 3 places at the SAU Vic Go Kart Series end of year meet and award night held after the last race.

Rounds are run as per venue rules and points are won just like a 2014 F1 race (without doubles points for the last round) –

1st - 25pts 2nd – 18pts 3rd – 15pts 4th – 12pts 5th – 10pts

6th – 8pts 7th – 6pts 8th – 4pts 9th – 2pts 10th – 1pt

This third round sees the series at GO Kartsport Racing. The 480m track has sweeping bends and straights for overtaking. A 30.6sec average lap time should make for some quick fun racing!

10668953_10153421795739386_4552393883809

Entry to the event is $80 per driver which includes -

  • 10lap Qualifying Session
  • 20lap Race
  • Trophies for 1st, 2nd & 3rd
  • After race eats at 'Fat Bobs'

This is an open event to members and non-members of SAU Vic so feel free to invite a friend or family member to join in on the fun!

11:30am meet with a 12:00pm race start.

To enter simply show your interest here and have your name added to the list then pay on the day of the race.

You can also send in your race fees to secure your spot for the day to -

Name: Skylines Australia - Victoria
Bank: Westpac
BSB: 033305
Account: 265609

For a reference when you make the payment put - 'GK3 forum-name' - so we know who paid and what you are paying for.

There are limited spots open so get your name/race fees in to secure your place on the grid for the second round of the SAU Vic Go Kart Series!

Driver List -

Lee

Martin

John

Chris

Oscar

Simon

Ray

Simone

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449261-round-3-sau-vic-go-kart-series/
Share on other sites

ill pencil this in.

theres no outdoor area for BBQ, unless we want to stand next to chesterville road like a bunch of muppets :P

They said they did! Might have to contact them about this, thanks.

Understand things change but at the prior round there was mention of the last round being at an outdoor venue with undulations - or was I off with the fairies.

I'm just putting a mental note of the tracks I've been to/would like to go to, so interested if there was another public accessible outdoor venue

Understand things change but at the prior round there was mention of the last round being at an outdoor venue with undulations - or was I off with the fairies.

I'm just putting a mental note of the tracks I've been to/would like to go to, so interested if there was another public accessible outdoor venue

Would have loved a final outside round and even more so with good weather pretty much on us but as Simon said there were dramas with the booking (or the trying of at least! BAHHH!!!!).

Think this as a backup track should be ok though, hope people enjoy it on the day :)

  • 2 weeks later...

So seeing as though there is no place for a BBQ at the next round there was a place needed for after Kart eats. Such a place has been found and its called Fat Bobs!

Fat Bob's Bar and Grill is located in Moorabbin on the southeast side of Melbourne and is home to handcrafted burgers such as the Jackie-O and the Victa.

To compliment these they offer a diverse array of icy cold beers from around the world, as well as cocktails, milkshakes and spiders. This can all be enjoyed amongst the neon and vintage sign wonderland that is Fat Bob's dining room.

So follow us less than 1km down to Fat Bob's after the race for some re-fueling at one of Melbourne's best Burger joints!

Check out their menu at.

http://www.fatbobs.com.au/menu-burgers.html

  • Like 1

spent the weekend shaving my body to get an aerodynamic advantage..

we are doing nude go karts yeah?

Sorry Martin, this round will be clothed... The Great Gokart Disaster of 2010 has limited our options when it comes to Pubic Liability Insurance.

A sad day in the club history.

#neverforget

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
×
×
  • Create New...