Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can get away with using cheap intercoolers, pipes etc but it all comes down to the fact that when the turbo has the shits and your up for a full rebuild we don't want to have to say we told you so. But it seems from all advice given ur set on a ebay turbo. Go for it let us know what power u make and if it lasts over a week.

  • Like 1

*Sigh* Mr hairdryer sell your skyline to someone who will treat it with the right parts it deserves! Dunno what you are hoping to achieve or prove using a fleabay paperweight but you will prove to us what everyone already knows.. Your car will make faaark all power with massive amounts of lag & drive like a shitbox!

Just cause a drift car uses it doesn't mean shit! They dont care about response when they are limiter bashing them everywhere.. For the sake of maybe $200 MAX a hypergear turbo will eat an Ebay shitbox & be reliable and will have warranty and after sales service. If you dont heed this advice you are a f**kwit!

Wow, man asks legit question sau roaches come out of the sewers to have a crack

I've bought 2 china spec turbos and they are ok for the money.

yes mine are more laggy and make less power then an equivalent name brand turbo but I didnt expect much for the price I paid

another legitimate option for that size and airflow would be a reconditioned holset turbo, not china cheap but around 500delivered from usa. There are quite a few success stories about them on ka24s rb20s 25s honda motors etc

but not on sau

Wow, man asks legit question sau roaches come out of the sewers to have a crack

I've bought 2 china spec turbos and they are ok for the money.

yes mine are more laggy and make less power then an equivalent name brand turbo but I didnt expect much for the price I paid

another legitimate option for that size and airflow would be a reconditioned holset turbo, not china cheap but around 500delivered from usa. There are quite a few success stories about them on ka24s rb20s 25s honda motors etc

but not on sau

He has been given legit answers.

By your own admission the Ebay special is worse than a decent turbo. Pretty much what every is telling the OP.

There are few success stories for Holset on SAU because they are a worse option that what he is being suggested.

Can lead a horse to water but holding his head under and making him drink is hard work.

Wow, man asks legit question sau roaches come out of the sewers to have a crack

I've bought 2 china spec turbos and they are ok for the money.

yes mine are more laggy and make less power then an equivalent name brand turbo but I didnt expect much for the price I paid

another legitimate option for that size and airflow would be a reconditioned holset turbo, not china cheap but around 500delivered from usa. There are quite a few success stories about them on ka24s rb20s 25s honda motors etc

but not on sau

So for an inferior result it is a cheap way to achieve it?

The turbo basically makes the power, why skimp on it?

Just over 1000 for a hypergear or second hand garrett. I know what I would do.

i'm pretty sure there isn't a single turbo manufacturer that doesn't make turbo's in china.....get used to it boys...they're all made there or will be....search around on youtube like i did when looking for a turbo and you'll see all the reason the chinese knockoff turbos aren't good...the hypergear turbo's were the best price/performance option of any i had seen and i settled on a ATR43SS2....i couldn't really afford garrett price $2k+ and i was using a GT3076r as a guide for price $2200 here NZD. i bought my turbo and wastegate for a lot less than that. at a minimum you'll have to re-core your china knock off early and you'd have spent the same already as on a hypergear that you wouldn't have to re-core.

Mate there is nothing legit about this question and you and your septic turbos have proven all of my points having owned 2 of these gastro units! You didnt learn after the 1st turbo & i don't know if you have driven a car with a decent turbo before but if you have you would know they aren't worth their weight in piss! I've driven/owned quite a few big $$$ cars and driven some fleabay racers and i can tell you personally that they SUCK!

quote name="#skyginer" post="7402202" timestamp="1412479068"]Wow, man asks legit question sau roaches come out of the sewers to have a crack

I've bought 2 china spec turbos and they are ok for the money.

yes mine are more laggy and make less power then an equivalent name brand turbo but I didnt expect much for the price I paid

another legitimate option for that size and airflow would be a reconditioned holset turbo, not china cheap but around 500delivered from usa. There are quite a few success stories about them on ka24s rb20s 25s honda motors etc

but not on sau

Edited by Mick_o

A friend of mine only believes in cheap ebay turbo's. Last week he ordered his 4th one, cost him around $130-150,-. The 3rd turbo lasted him about a week before it blew the seals. If you add all the cost he payed so far he's probably way above a good reliable turbo. The 2nd turbo got him a 14.50 sec at the strip and around 20~ish psi, totally useless scrap of metal. With the stock toyota turbo he went faster lol.

That's my 2 cents.

Not true mick o... all 6 and 4 bangers I take it? A 302 with a pair or ebays hairdryers had a shit load of grunt and would fry em at 80 and do high tens. Guess what?! Ebay turbos!

If you don't understand why it worked that way for that engine, then you really don't deserve to be leading this "conversation".

Imagine how much better it would have been with proper turbo(s). All that engine was doing was using capacity to mask poor turbo specification.

/sheesh. Just f**king sheesh.

  • Like 2

So?

How about I link you to a whole range of 6 - 6.2 litre Holdens with 2x GT3076 or similar turbo additions and let you compare that EB to them? How do you think a 5L + piss poor turbos will compare to something 20% larger with better turbos?

Your argument is faulty.

Edited by GTSBoy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...