Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gary's pricing is still not bad, and you do get the custom valving and extra circlip grooves that you wouldn't get buying the Bilsteins vanilla from eBay.

true that, I don't have the circlip grooves on mine...

will be offlloading my set in a few months.. they're great on the street, but not that great on the track unfortunately...

Will be moving onto MCAs coilovers :D

true that, I don't have the circlip grooves on mine...

will be offlloading my set in a few months.. they're great on the street, but not that great on the track unfortunately...

Will be moving onto MCAs coilovers :D

Let me know when you plan to get rid of them and how much. I plan to get rid of my coilovers. Too hard for my liking. Do you have good ground clearance?

Let me know when you plan to get rid of them and how much. I plan to get rid of my coilovers. Too hard for my liking. Do you have good ground clearance?

sure thing :)

You've seen my car (I think).. it's not that low. The rears have about a 2cm gap to the guard and the fronts about 3cm.

The Bilstein pbf cattle dog has the following listed:

NISSAN SKYLINE Coupe (R32)

2.0 4x4, 2.0 Turbo 4x4, 2.6 Twin Turbo 4x4

B6 Sport

Front 24-014717

Rear 24-014724

2.0 4x4, 2.0 Turbo 4x4, 2.6 Twin Turbo 4x4

B8

Front 24-016728

Rear 24-016735

My shocks have the following on the stickers:

Front F4-B46-1471-HO

Rears F4-B46-1742-HO

Most people have the B6's but am not sure what the B8's bring to the party. Says they are a shortened version which would be useful at the front, not so much the back. Don't know what the valving differences are, however.

Edited by djr81

B6 (which is the B46 part number) are great shocks. B8 are the next step up in quality. Hard to say how much better they could be than the B6s, seeing as the B6s feel so nice and work so well. But Bilstein aren't in the habit of telling us lies, so they must have something over them. I agonised a bit over the choice - read the Bilstein website a fair bit, and decided to save the money involved iin stepping up to B8.

recommended spring rate for mostly street use with spirited driving on backroads?

B6 (which is the B46 part number) are great shocks. B8 are the next step up in quality. Hard to say how much better they could be than the B6s, seeing as the B6s feel so nice and work so well. But Bilstein aren't in the habit of telling us lies, so they must have something over them. I agonised a bit over the choice - read the Bilstein website a fair bit, and decided to save the money involved iin stepping up to B8.

I have R32 GTSt, so my comments are kinda relevant to GTR, but with some limitations. So read this with at least one squinted eye.

Stock GTSt spring rates are <3kg/mm. The Kings low and the Whiteline spring that Gary recommends for GTSt with his Bilsteins are about 4kg/mm. I tried these and for whatever reason they simply don't work. They were far too low and could not be set up high enough. So I ended up with the Kings lows for GTRs. These are >5 kg/mm. They are quite firm, but the Bilsteins give great control.

I would expect that they would still be great on GTR, even with the extra weight.

I have posted fairly extensively on this experience some months back, so search up those posts for more accurate numbers and my sad but happy ending story.

It depends. The biggest problem is getting a decent amount of travel t the front. I would recommend Eibach 65 dia springs, 5/5.5/6 kg/mm front and depending on your preference probably a kg/mm softer at the rear. Use 10" spring if at all possible and make sure you get some strut tops as without them the suspension travel is hopeless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...