Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I will need new front rotors for my GTST and came across this kit:

http://db-power.co.uk/products-page/front-big-brake-kits/345mm-big-brake-kit/

They seem to be using the OEM calipers on an adapter.

So only the leverage increases not the surface area of the pads or brake pad pressure.

I don't know where their rotors come from either, so a bit of an unknown.

The alternative is buying known good standard rotors for about 70% of the price of this kit.

Any thoughts on this appreciated.

Edited by Torques
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449855-345-kit-any-thoughts/
Share on other sites

There's nothing particularly wrong with using the stock calipers on bigger rotors. In some respects, the bigger the rotors you go up to (up from the 296mm standard size) the easier it gets to make a decent adapter bracket to do the job. With the 296->324 brackets, because the radial increase is not very large the adapters end up being offset (ie they move the caliper around the disc a little bit as well as just outward radially) which is not as nice. As you get bigger than that you can just push the caliper out radially, which is stronger. But, even when you are only going to 324mm you may have to grind some caliper away to get it to sit over the rotor and get decent pad contact. As the rotors get bigger, this can become an increasing problem. After all, the calipers were designed to sit over a disc with a certain radius and therefore circumfrential curvature. Increase the disc size and the outside edge of the disc becomes more "flat" compared to the original curve.

The page you link describes the kit as being "Brembo", which might imply that the rotors they use are Brembos. Which would be fine. I'd be checking though, because it is written in such a way that it might just be a leftover from a copy-paste from another product page that was poorly edited. Make no assumptions.

Increasing pad contact area is not really a concern. The Nissan pads are reasonably large - you get a decent contact area from them anyway. And larger pads don't actually increase the braking power anyway. Braking power comes from the hydraulics and the radius of contact - ie how far out from the axle the pad is gripping the rotor. The rest of the performance increase is from increased mass. You can stand on the brakes for longer and harder stops and the increased rotor mass gives you more metal to soak up the heat.

Edited by GTSBoy

Thanks for the replies,

I will have to check with the manufacturer about the required clearance and other work possibly to be done to fit this.

With brakes I will make no compromises, so it has to be a solid solution/adapters.

Too much at stake here.

Also I need to find out about the origin of the rotors since I don't want to be stuck with 'special rotors' I can not buy on the free market.

The 324mm solution seems not to be that favourable then?

If all fails braided lines + new fluid + new rotors/pads might do the trick.

Cheers ..

Edited by Torques

324mm is good because it's the standard Nissan Brembo rotor. It's not a massive upgrade from 296, but worthwhile. The brackets are not ideal and the need to grind the calipers not the best either. Because of that, if I were to go to the effort to upgrade my brakes seriously, I'd do it "properly" by buying a set of D2 or Ksport style ching chong brakes. Plenty of people using them, and they're not hideously expensive, and they use rotor and sics sizes that give you options to further upgrade those items with more conventional brands. Although, if I were to really upgrade, I'd also consider a set of R34 brakes. 310mm without need for brackets (need the R34 rotors and calipers, obviously). An even smaller upgrade from 296, but given that I started with 280.......everything is good.

Hmmm

OK ... thanks.

I have 17'' GTR rims, so my options might be limited.

From 294 to 310mm is not really a huge step, so cost wise I might have to explorer this.

I will have to buy new rotors anyhow, and price wise they don't differ a lot between GTST GTT or GTR,

If all fails possibly a set of new rotors, pads, and braided lines will help as well.

You wouldn't fit those 345mm brakes under your 17s anyway. ~330mm is about the limit, depending on the caliper in use. Similarly, you wouldn't fit any of the 356mm or so kits under there.

And a correction. I typo'd in my earlier post. "sics" was supposed to be "pad". Dunno how I managed that one.

OK,

Thanks again ... that kinda limits the options.

i checked on the price for used GTT calipers and they're too expensive to justify going the 310mm route.

So what's left is

Unique Auto Sports

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/Parts-Shop/stage-1-brake-upgrade-kit-642.aspx

or just getting the standard rotors ...

The chinese 330mm kit should fit fine under most 17s. If you're tracking i'd go the 330 kit instead of the UAS one. You get hatted rotors (IIRC replacement rings are only $AU250) and braided lines with it. I found the pedal had a much nicer feel than the standard calipers with braided lines.

Thanks,

Do you have a link for that 330mm kit?

Unique Auto Sports replied and the price is too steep for 2 brackets (AUD 380)

(I get 2 good new rotors for that)

Also I would need different pads because of 'overhang'

These guys replied:

http://db-power.co.uk/products-page/front-big-brake-kits/345mm-big-brake-kit/

And said the kit might fit under the GTR rims .. I will need to take some measures I guess.

http://justjap.com/brakes/brake-kits/k-sport-front-brake-kits/nissan.html but plenty of places do them. You can also find them on ebay. Other names for the same stuff is G4, D2, ATTKD. Nismoid has run some group buys so check if there's anything active in that forum.

You dont need different pads for the UAS kit.

  • 2 weeks later...

My experience

I have an r32gtst which had the stock brakes, a couple of long hills runs and long high speed downhill stops shown me they were average aswell.

So I went 324mm front rotors and adaptor aswell as hfms 337mm rear rotor upgrade and some castrol super dot fluid.

When I went to bed the brakes in I was able to get 10or so 120km -15km stops with no stress at all. Once bedded I have experienced zero fade on long hills runs and testing their limits in a local industrial estate (used 1/4 tank of fuel) still no issues

All on semi slicks aswell

But with just the 324 fronts it was a little too front biased

My 2c

post-93536-0-14528900-1414906183_thumb.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...