Jump to content
SAU Community

345 Kit .. Any Thoughts?

Torques
 Share

Recommended Posts

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted (edited)

I will need new front rotors for my GTST and came across this kit:

http://db-power.co.uk/products-page/front-big-brake-kits/345mm-big-brake-kit/

They seem to be using the OEM calipers on an adapter.

So only the leverage increases not the surface area of the pads or brake pad pressure.

I don't know where their rotors come from either, so a bit of an unknown.

The alternative is buying known good standard rotors for about 70% of the price of this kit.

Any thoughts on this appreciated.

Edited by Torques
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449855-345-kit-any-thoughts/
Share on other sites
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

There's nothing particularly wrong with using the stock calipers on bigger rotors. In some respects, the bigger the rotors you go up to (up from the 296mm standard size) the easier it gets to make a decent adapter bracket to do the job. With the 296->324 brackets, because the radial increase is not very large the adapters end up being offset (ie they move the caliper around the disc a little bit as well as just outward radially) which is not as nice. As you get bigger than that you can just push the caliper out radially, which is stronger. But, even when you are only going to 324mm you may have to grind some caliper away to get it to sit over the rotor and get decent pad contact. As the rotors get bigger, this can become an increasing problem. After all, the calipers were designed to sit over a disc with a certain radius and therefore circumfrential curvature. Increase the disc size and the outside edge of the disc becomes more "flat" compared to the original curve.

The page you link describes the kit as being "Brembo", which might imply that the rotors they use are Brembos. Which would be fine. I'd be checking though, because it is written in such a way that it might just be a leftover from a copy-paste from another product page that was poorly edited. Make no assumptions.

Increasing pad contact area is not really a concern. The Nissan pads are reasonably large - you get a decent contact area from them anyway. And larger pads don't actually increase the braking power anyway. Braking power comes from the hydraulics and the radius of contact - ie how far out from the axle the pad is gripping the rotor. The rest of the performance increase is from increased mass. You can stand on the brakes for longer and harder stops and the increased rotor mass gives you more metal to soak up the heat.

Edited by GTSBoy
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the replies,

I will have to check with the manufacturer about the required clearance and other work possibly to be done to fit this.

With brakes I will make no compromises, so it has to be a solid solution/adapters.

Too much at stake here.

Also I need to find out about the origin of the rotors since I don't want to be stuck with 'special rotors' I can not buy on the free market.

The 324mm solution seems not to be that favourable then?

If all fails braided lines + new fluid + new rotors/pads might do the trick.

Cheers ..

Edited by Torques
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

324mm is good because it's the standard Nissan Brembo rotor. It's not a massive upgrade from 296, but worthwhile. The brackets are not ideal and the need to grind the calipers not the best either. Because of that, if I were to go to the effort to upgrade my brakes seriously, I'd do it "properly" by buying a set of D2 or Ksport style ching chong brakes. Plenty of people using them, and they're not hideously expensive, and they use rotor and sics sizes that give you options to further upgrade those items with more conventional brands. Although, if I were to really upgrade, I'd also consider a set of R34 brakes. 310mm without need for brackets (need the R34 rotors and calipers, obviously). An even smaller upgrade from 296, but given that I started with 280.......everything is good.

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmmm

OK ... thanks.

I have 17'' GTR rims, so my options might be limited.

From 294 to 310mm is not really a huge step, so cost wise I might have to explorer this.

I will have to buy new rotors anyhow, and price wise they don't differ a lot between GTST GTT or GTR,

If all fails possibly a set of new rotors, pads, and braided lines will help as well.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

You wouldn't fit those 345mm brakes under your 17s anyway. ~330mm is about the limit, depending on the caliper in use. Similarly, you wouldn't fit any of the 356mm or so kits under there.

And a correction. I typo'd in my earlier post. "sics" was supposed to be "pad". Dunno how I managed that one.

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK,

Thanks again ... that kinda limits the options.

i checked on the price for used GTT calipers and they're too expensive to justify going the 310mm route.

So what's left is

Unique Auto Sports

http://www.uniqueautosports.com.au/Parts-Shop/stage-1-brake-upgrade-kit-642.aspx

or just getting the standard rotors ...

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

The chinese 330mm kit should fit fine under most 17s. If you're tracking i'd go the 330 kit instead of the UAS one. You get hatted rotors (IIRC replacement rings are only $AU250) and braided lines with it. I found the pedal had a much nicer feel than the standard calipers with braided lines.

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks,

Do you have a link for that 330mm kit?

Unique Auto Sports replied and the price is too steep for 2 brackets (AUD 380)

(I get 2 good new rotors for that)

Also I would need different pads because of 'overhang'

These guys replied:

http://db-power.co.uk/products-page/front-big-brake-kits/345mm-big-brake-kit/

And said the kit might fit under the GTR rims .. I will need to take some measures I guess.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

http://justjap.com/brakes/brake-kits/k-sport-front-brake-kits/nissan.html but plenty of places do them. You can also find them on ebay. Other names for the same stuff is G4, D2, ATTKD. Nismoid has run some group buys so check if there's anything active in that forum.

You dont need different pads for the UAS kit.

  • 2 weeks later...
#skyginer Enthusiast

#skyginer

Posted
Posted

My experience

I have an r32gtst which had the stock brakes, a couple of long hills runs and long high speed downhill stops shown me they were average aswell.

So I went 324mm front rotors and adaptor aswell as hfms 337mm rear rotor upgrade and some castrol super dot fluid.

When I went to bed the brakes in I was able to get 10or so 120km -15km stops with no stress at all. Once bedded I have experienced zero fade on long hills runs and testing their limits in a local industrial estate (used 1/4 tank of fuel) still no issues

All on semi slicks aswell

But with just the 324 fronts it was a little too front biased

My 2c

post-93536-0-14528900-1414906183_thumb.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...