Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Awesome thread, will be awesome to see a finished product. Will you continue to track it when you finish the RB build?

That is the plan. But for 2015 me and my friend have a 7000km trip to the Alps planned. So that is the main goal for next year. Italy, Monaco, Switzerland and so on.

  • Like 1

THIS IS M.I.N.T!!!!

May seem like a silly question. Why not the S54 3.2L and 6psd vs RB26 and 5spd?

Main reason is that I want my car to stand out. There is a LOT of S54 E30's being buildt in Norway at this time. And I have always loved the RB26 sound, and I have dreamt about swaping an RB into something. So it was time to make a boy dream come true. Just hope I can get this to be as reliable as the BMW engine was/is.

Fair enough. I get building a "different" car to the masses. I was looking for an E30 M3 for a while and ended up getting my 80s on with my Sierra Cosworth. Will end up with an E30 M3 one day, though sadly will never realise my dream of one running a Judd V8

Fair enough. I get building a "different" car to the masses. I was looking for an E30 M3 for a while and ended up getting my 80s on with my Sierra Cosworth. Will end up with an E30 M3 one day, though sadly will never realise my dream of one running a Judd V8

My friend have a 86 Cosworth. It will be that car and mine that is going to cruise the alpine roads august next year. He is doing a complete rebuild of the YB engine and some DTM parts.

  • 1 month later...

Got some more photos of it on email. I can see some rust on the flange, but I also noticed that there is these small braces from the flange and onto the turbes. I remember seeing that on the CX racing ones if I remember correct. Another thing is that the 6Boost manifolds are coated anyway, am I right?

Update time!

I have not done much with the car itself. There is winter here in Norway, and I f**king hate to work in a cold ass garage when I actually don't have to. So I have just been collecting more knowledge about the RB26, as well as collecting parts and working out solutions in my head.

I was surfing Ebay and stumbled over a swap kit for RB26 in 200sx. It was fair price so I just bought is. Figured that it is more easy for me to modify them mounts, rather than te stock aluminium mounts. To be honest, I don't think it is that much off. Have not had the time to test it on the engine yet.

DSC_0701.jpg

From USA company Wiring Specialties. They are making custum wiring harnesses for different cars and applications. I found ound that they was actually making a RB26 harness for the E36. So I emailed them and told them what car and model I had, and they could make one custom for me.

So I sourced a C101 plug (BMW interface) on Ebay in USA and just got that shipped directly to Wiring Specialties. So now I have a plug and play harness for the RB26 in my E30M3, hopefully.

Another benefit is that the Japan wiring harness is not having a good rumor in beeing of high quality. This makes my build more reliable and safe from electrical problems caused by an old harness. Everything in this is new, all the plugs and connectors is new. I have read that people have had problems when mapping PNP stand alone engine management systems, that is caused by a bad stock harness.

Another thing that Wiring Specialties do with this harness is that they clean it out. They route it a bit different and some boxes, relays, ignition amp and injector resistance is moved to inside where the ECU will be fitted. So the engine itself will look more clean. The wires for the injectors for exaple is now routed under the intake.

This this costed me a lot of money, so I'm just hoping it will work as it should. Only thing I need is a BMW oiltemp and water temp to get correct reading in my cluster. Also need to solder 3 or 4 wires. For the reverse, speed signal and rev counter I think. Have not had a good enough look at it yet.

DSC_0708.jpg

DSC_0709.jpg

DSC_0714.jpg

DSC_0711.jpg

DSC_0710.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...

Bough myself a bottom mount manifold. Claimed to be out of a old HKS kit. This is just a test project to see if I can use a bottom mount single setup, but the main plan is to cut off the flange and turn it over to a top mount manifold. Would also need to angle the T4 flange as well.

_57.jpg

h_57.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Okay, so, I have got some work done. The engine is now fully stripped down and I have made a deal with a engine shop to take care of the internals for me. And since he has a lot of work to do now, everything is on hold.

There is no rush when building something like this anyway. I have made a list for a shop in USA that sells almost every part that I need, so I'm waiting for a final quote on the price there.

DSC_0859.jpg

The cylinders looks good, so there was no unpleasant suprises when I opened the engine.

DSC_0863.jpg

Here is how each main bearing looked. I'm no engine expert, but there was only significant ware on the number 1 bearing.

DSC_0865.jpg

DSC_0866.jpg

DSC_0867.jpg

DSC_0868.jpg

DSC_0869.jpg

DSC_0870.jpg

DSC_0871.jpg

Since it is late model R32 GTR engine, the crank has the long nose. Saved some bucks there!

DSC_0873.jpg

One random shot of the crank

DSC_0874.jpg

Started to take apart the head and placed the parts in order on the bench. Rest is up to the engine builder to take apart.

DSC_0878.jpg

DSC_0879.jpg

And a complete stripped block. Ready for wash, hone, deck and some drilling.

DSC_0880.jpg

DSC_0881.jpg

Till next time

What will be done to the bottom end is:

-Fully balanced crank together with flywhee, clutch and harmonic balancer.

-Balanced stock rods and pistons

-Hone and deck the block

-Drill the return galleried to match the head gasked (10mm)

-JUN high flow oil pump

-1.2mm gallery restrictor

-New race rod and crak bearings after the machine shop have taken correct masures of the clearances

The head will get a full check with pressure testing and flow testing. Drill the return galleries and make the oil entry better.

New decking for the head as well as a good cleaning job.

The total long block will be packed with stock main bolts, because ARP is not needed for the power I'm aiming for.

There will probably be ARP bolts in the rods, ARP in the flywheel and ARP head studs. Cometic complete gasket kit for the top end and bottom end.

The long block will be put together by the machine shop, so I'm picking up a new buildt long block.

I would love to get some inputs from you guys if you think I'm doing this the correct way.

Should I maybe cost a new set of rods and pistons now when I'm first at it?

Aim is not more than 500hp anyway. I'm probably going top mounted upgraded stock twin turbos on custom manifolds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
    • Echo the awesome sentiment 👍 Definitely a car worth saving. Looking forward to seeing updates as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...