Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your propaganda and JEDI-77's Z32 have swayed me to appreciate and even consider these cars to be cool.

Maybe I need to have a ride in one

:D Mark's car is nice, there are plenty worse ones you could have a ride in!

They are no more troublesome than any other 25ish year old import, owned by people who can't afford the basic maintenance.

There are many, many shitboxes not worth saving (soon to be parts cars), and a few very well cared for/maintained/modded examples. There are still enough average/above average ones floating around that could be nice with a bit of time and effort (and money).

  • 2 weeks later...

Final fuel line re-routing has begun. Came to a stop when I realised I needed to connect 2 lots of 2 female hose ends. Always forget the males.

So took the time to install the Twinz chin spoiler, looks good, fits well, but now I have to redo my undertray as access to mounting holes are reduced.

20160425_172210_zpsvklqeyxd.jpg

20160425_172233_zpssbfet6kl.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Fuel system is complete again now. 1650s are in etc

Just finishing up install of in cabin fuel pressure gauge, have a grommet or 2 to replace, and footwell to put back together.

Then just need to find the laptop charger and I can hopefully fire it up again.

  • 4 months later...

Not long after my last post, I did find the laptop charger. Also discovered that the laptop battery was proper stuffed and would not power on. So I had to buy a new laptop, and all my tunes are stuck in the old laptop. Anyway...

I did get the zed fired up again and it idled perfectly.

Not long after that, I happened upon an Adaptronic select on the forum here (thanks Count Grantleyish, top seller!), and since I am obvioulsy not in any great hurry to get this bloody car working again, I decided to bite the bullet and replace Nistune with Adaptronic. Nearly got it ready to start too, when those bastards at Link ECU had a special this month on their Z32 plug in G4+.

So the Adaptronic was gone before it began, and I am currently waiting for the Link. At least alot of the wiring I did for the adaptronic isn't wasted, just needs to be re-terminated at the ECU (widebands and all the other external sensors).

In the meantime, I have also sold off my original Ross Metaljacket balancer, with a view to get one of the new ones with the trigger wheel already attached. Obviously all the bracketry and sensors that go with this will need to be sorted at some stage. Like everything, it all takes time and/or money, which I don't have much of either with now 2 kids under 1.5.

Also forgot the fancy sump i picked up. It is from Specialty Z in the states, was used on a local race car that met an untimely end at lakeside. It is a factory sump, modified to suit.

Big capacity, fancy trapdoors and baffles and scrapers and stuff20161015_180024.jpg

20161015_180031.jpg

20161015_195449.jpg

20161015_180043.jpg

  • 2 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Bit of an update.

Car is now running on the link G4+, with crank trigger and modified CAS. Have a new sync trigger to install that replaces the CAS altogether, but haven't got there yet.

Going to be removing the AEM widebands and replace them with Ecotrons ALM CAN II. Received them yesterday so no more excuses.

Also been working on an in car pc/dash setup which is basically complete. It is a little bit rougher than I'd like but still pretty happy with how it turned out. Will fine tune the display as I go, was just a quick layout to define the size. The blue LED for highbeam is way too bright (even with twice the resistance of the green indicators) so I will have to do something there. Have some different LED's with a diffused face in transit, so they might work better, even tho I do like the chrome bezel on these.

Basic setup is as follows. 7in Win 10 touchscreen mini pc in centre console (armrest), dash screen is the 2nd display and is a usb powered raspberry pi hdmi 7in. Software is the regular PClink.

20171021_232121.thumb.jpg.2bad97d4a834a31f8392440e8a3e6b92.jpg20171024_132326.thumb.jpg.a210506ea99dd3723c8f965e5d3d084b.jpg20171024_155150.thumb.jpg.817d9f3d6b48a0582f013dce9ea040ef.jpg20171026_225304.thumb.jpg.2b9c94746b9de2a2a0eec885b03bb484.jpg20171029_140355.thumb.jpg.e18c4dd85dae63b0504d5afb628c852e.jpg20171028_224427.thumb.jpg.ab6235d2aabb17f2d28fe6a9c39f0e92.jpg

car pc dash small day.mp4

Fuel setup has also been changed. All fuelab products removed. They were the source of some intermittent delivery issues I was having. Working just enough to send me on a massive wild goose chase changing everything else.

Anyway, settled for now on twin 460's in tank, no surge tank anymore, turbosmart FPR2000 and a Radium damper.

  • Like 5
3 minutes ago, GTofuS-T said:

That's awesome! Love the dash!! would be keen to see a bit more detail on the development of it one day. 

Thankyou! Once I have settled on the setup and finished it all up I will add some more details and pics of the whole thing.

  • Like 1
2 minutes ago, PranK said:

I like the concept of a high beam dashboard LED burning the retinas of the driver. People will use high beams sparingly then. :)

 

haha I agree 100%, just not in my car :D and I would like to be able to see again shortly after I turn them off, which as it stands, I can't. It is that bright. I was quite surprised as they are the same series as the green ones, and they are pleasant.

  • Like 1
4 minutes ago, MagicMikeZ32 said:

haha I agree 100%, just not in my car :D and I would like to be able to see again shortly after I turn them off, which as it stands, I can't. It is that bright. I was quite surprised as they are the same series as the green ones, and they are pleasant.

Perhaps you can direct the light from the LED out the front to supplement the high beams ? :)

8 minutes ago, PranK said:

Perhaps you can direct the light from the LED out the front to supplement the high beams ? :)

Funny you should mention that... Since I have replaced the foglights with the carbon ducts, night viability is terrible without high beams, so I have plans to do something to supplement the low beams (and also the parkers that are supposed to live in the foglights).

But I am a while off a mountain run so no great rush to start on that.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
    • It sounds farrrrrrr too cold at your place Duncan... Here I was thinking our 10 degrees overnight is getting cold...
    • oh yeah, reminded this morning....bin lids frozen shut too
    • In my case not, because of total reno. But yeah.
    • Did you use an electronic speedo drive? Does you speedometer read all the way to 180km?
×
×
  • Create New...