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Thoes who know me, this has been in the planning/works for a fair while. Time, money, other projects, life in general got in the way. Racing at lakeside in the sport sedan class just reinforced the fact I needed to pull finger and make it happen.

Let's start at the top, the head was sourced from a workshop in Brisbane. It had been completely stripped because of a dropped valve in #1 and badly damaged. A normal person would pass it by but for what I had planned for it... it was perfect. Paul Gilbert from Gilberts cylinder head engineering at Southport have repaired the chamber which in it self was not that bad and ported to suit what is coming next. New valve seats throughout the head to suit the 1 mm oversize supertech valves, ferra springs (matched to the cams) titanium retainers and collets. Attop the valves are a ser of Tomei short skirt buckets and HKS type 2, 272 degree cams n wheels.

The block is an na early holden derivative. It and 2 others were stripped and put out to season for a few years in the harsh Warwick outdoor environment. 1 has been selected and machined, 1 has been used as a dummy to manufacture brackets etc on an the other is still braving the elements. 88mm forged CP pistions and Spool rods with a cryogenic, match ground and nitrated crank. Making 9.2 compression ratio and a swept capacity of 3.101L. During the machining it was obviously washed, crack tested and so on. It was also modified for the head, restrictors and set up for a dry sump. Which brings up a question, how many people here have built a dry sump pan for a gtst?

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Yes on both counts Dale. The baffling pushes oil to the rear 2 scavenge ports under acceleration and to the front 1 under brakes. I have had a fair amount of input from a friend who has built and raced 2a sports cars. (Lemans style things) The mounts drop the engine down to the same or slightly lower height a 25. I will be using a 5 mm rubber pad under each of them.

The turbos are td05's on a trust manifold.

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After working out att the bolt holes, angles, heights etc, I drew it up in inventor and sent it to the conclusion plasma cutter. 6 mm plate with slots and key design. It holds it self together really nicely almost eliminating the need to tack weld it. I used countersunk graded bolts Instead of studs. They have been tacked in so the won't spin when putting the nylocks on later. The main reason I used countersunk bolts is that they won't pull out like a stud can.

The mounts are 6 mm plate. The slots are 6.5mm wide and the keys are 3 mm Long. With a good root run plug weld, those suckers are not going anywhere.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Noddy,

Really enjoying your build, as it progresses.

I've been looking at your mounts, what a fantastic job you've done.

Been looking for some quality engine mounts for my 25de/30 gtr build.

I'm also going the dry sump way. Do you thing your mounts will fit my build?

And give me enough clearance.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have used the RB30 steel legs and made the feet to suit. I could cut you a set next time I'm cutting some 6 mm sheet. I'd just send the parts so you could mark out bolt holes etc to suit. Then you can just weld them up. If you want a sump pan bolt flange, I could do 1 of them for you too.

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