Diff Bushings - Factory Or Equivalent?

[sonicii]

Does anyone know if the factory diff mount bushings are available?

I know there are several after-market poly options, but everyone says the firmer bushes create an increase in noise.

As this is my daily, I am hoping to keep it fairly quite where possible so I would prefer to replace these with factory bushes, or at least a good quality OEM equivalent. By the look of it the factory bushes are filled with a silicone liquid too.

I found a post that stated the bushings aren't available for the V36, but not sure if the V35 is in the same boat.

Has anyone ever seen factory bushings for sale? or does everyone just go with poly bushes?

[camr33]

I am interested in this also, as I want to look at replacing mine soon as well.

Does anyone know a place that sells them in Aus for a reasonable price, without opting for an Ebay special?

[sonicii]

yeah.. at this stage I am thinking I might have to go with whiteline bushes..http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/Update%20BL-385.pdf they seem to be the softest of the poly bushes. Everyone has stated the solid bushes are the worst for NHV, like the SPL bushes.

you can buy the whiteline bushes at several places.. like here - http://gslrallysport.com/au/kdt911-whiteline-rear-diff-mount-350z.html

Edited December 2, 2014 by sonicii

[scotty nm35]

Whiteline.

I have fitted many sets over the years, don't bother with the factory crap.

Replacing the factory bush would require you to drop the subframe too, where as the Whiteline ones you only need to drop the diff.

[sonicii]

Thanks, I am leaning towards the whiteline product, do you know if you can remove the old bush with the subframe in place in a sedan too? since the spare tyre well sits right behind the diff bush in the Sedan. or can you get enough access to it with the diff removed? There are a few procedures online that suggest to cut out the old rubber and then use a hacksaw to cut through the outer metal ring of the old bush. is that the method you have used?

I assume you haven't found any increase in NVH with the whiteline bushes?

Do you happen to know if you can even buy the factory bushings? I wasn't able to find them anywhere..

[_thom_]

Thanks for the info. I'm also interested in replacing my diff bushes. I'll be installing a Cusco LSD and was wondering whether I should purchase SPL or Whiteline. I'm concerned about NVH for inner city driving.

[sonicii]

I think the SPL bushings are solid, so they will transmit more noise than the whiteline bushes. Some have suggested to only use the SPL solid bushes if you do a lot of track work. Obviously I don't have any first hand experience.. just some posts I have come across when looking for options over the last couple of days.

[scotty nm35]

There are a few procedures online that suggest to cut out the old rubber and then use a hacksaw to cut through the outer metal ring of the old bush. is that the method you have used?

That's the method Whiteline recommend in the instructions. Just be careful not to cut through the alloy.

[sonicii]

That's the method Whiteline recommend in the instructions. Just be careful not to cut through the alloy.

Awesome.. thanks for the info.

I assume the outer ring of the bush is steel, so extra care will be needed to ensure I don't cut too far, as the alloy will be a bit like butter compared to the steel bush.

[grae35]

Did my sedan a couple of months ago Greg when we were discussing 18inch front wheels.

The outer ring is indeed alloy too and can be an absolute bitch to cut out as it grips onto the alloy subframe really well.

I ended up following some advice to get a power hacksaw ($49 from ALDI at the time) and carefully cutting through the outer race in 2 spots after drilling multiple holes through the rubber to allow access for the blade.

The front diff bushes were a lot easier and can be hammered out once diff is removed.

Watch out for the black oily silicon liquid inside each rubber bush as it squirts everywhere when hammered. You should see the spray marks on the walls and ceiling of my garage!!!

Good luck

[V28VX37]

FWIW here's my adventures in replacing diff bushes on an R34 sedan: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448795-replacing-r34-diff-bushes-whats-involved/

On an R34 this can be done on the car without any cutting if you have the right tools (massive C clamp and right size drifts). You also have to lower the subframe but no need to remote it.

For the diff rear side bushing, I tried both SPF (steel sleeved i.e. similar to OEM) and Nolathane (2 part poly bush). The SPF was specced for this car but way out in size, significantly larger in diameter, so ended up buying the Nolathane instead. I've use SPF in several applications before and this is the first time it wouldn't fit, disappointing.

Just my $0.02

[sonicii]

Thanks guys.. I am going to order the whiteline bushes. I already have the whiteline front compression rod bushes and they are fine. My only concern is increased NHV, but it seems the whiteline have made an effort to reduce this without making the bushes too soft for the diff bushings.

I am also going to borrow my brothers battery powered reciprocating saw. by the look of it, using a wood blade to cut the rubber section out first, then using a metal blade to cut the outer ring works the best.

[grae35]

You probably won't get the reciprocating blade to cut the rubber out until you can give it enough clearance to get inside the old bearing race. A large (10 - 13mm) drill bit in a cordless drill will do multiple holes in seconds . This is the easy bit. I would suggest drilling top and bottom slots, saw the outer race and if you are lucky punch it out with a hammer and punch. Unfortunately mine gripped the alloy housing so well I needed to use a cold chisel to bend it away from the housing before it would move.

Slacken off the rear sub frame mounting bolts to allow it to drop to a better angle for work, but you do not need to remove the sub frame. Our sedans have the spare wheel well in a slightly different spot to the coupes so access is slightly harder but by no means impossible.

White line bushes (RKDT911) are virtually undetectable from stock as far as NVH is concerned. Just be careful to get the front mounts the right way around as the top and bottom washers are different thickness which will change your pinion angle if you reverse them by mistake.

[sonicii]

Great thanks.. I was hoping to get away with leaving the subframe/cradle in place. But I guess it will depend on how stubborn the old bush wants to be..

I have read some posts about the front bushes and to make sure you get them the right way around, so I will pay extra attention to that.

I ordered the kit from whiteline today.