Jump to content
SAU Community

Water Pump And Timing Belt Part Review

AMR33

By AMR33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey folks,

Thinking of buying this kit for my R33 Rb25det: http://www.golebysparts.com.au/parts/view/56/23/nissan-rb20det-rb25det-and-rb26dett/timing-belts-timing-belt-kits-water-pumps-and-thermostat/rb20det-rb25det-rb26dett-gates-racing-timing-belt-kit-and-water-pump (apologies for the external link)

Any advice you guys can give me on things to look out for etc? How do I ensure the water pump will fit.

And has anyone dealt with these guys before?

Cheers

Amir

Edited by Abdul11
AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nothing wrong with OEM. These are just cheaper. I rang Nissan and they quoted me $509 just for the tensioner and Idler pullies!!!

The guys at Golbey's said that the water pump will fit but I have to leave one bolt out (it is a gmb pump). Is this ok to use? I remember reading somehwere on here once that thats ok.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Something doesn't add up, $210?

Just using round figures, most belts no matter what brand are around the $100 mark.

Nissan quality tensioner and idler from any bearing shop comes to about $80.

3-Seals, about $10.

That leaves $20 for the water pump which if he's suggesting to leave the top stud out is for Rb 20/26/30 bolt pattern.

Kudos's $380 kit, although more expensive, shows far greater Nissan expertise.

I don't leave bolts out, but if you're chasing a cheap price, this would be it.

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

No don't leave that bolt out, have seen one with that bolt left out before and air got into water system slowly over the years and corroded everything

Welsh plugs, leaking head gasket.. Etc

How can air get into it? Sounds more like the coolant got out and the cooling system ran with air in it

Guarantee water will come out of the pump, air wont get in there

OP: Have you tried somewhere like Kudos Motorsport? From memory my kit with OEM water pump and idlers, belt and seals was less than $500

Jordy32 Experienced

Jordy32

Posted
Posted

Kudos has it, and gives you options to choose certain brands for bits too

If you buy OEM you know it's good too

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-100000km-service-kit-water-pump-timing-belt-nissan-skyline-r33-gts25t-rb25det-p-558.html

chiksluvit Experienced

chiksluvit

Posted
Posted (edited)

How can air get into it? Sounds more like the coolant got out and the cooling system ran with air in it

Guarantee water will come out of the pump, air wont get in there

OP: Have you tried somewhere like Kudos Motorsport? From memory my kit with OEM water pump and idlers, belt and seals was less than $500

If coolant gets out, something's gotta go in? If not air I don't know what else

Sure air probably won't get in from water pump when its hot because it's pressured, but when the reservoir eventually empties out then air will get in

Well it's not entirely impossible that air will get into the system when it still leaked a tiny bit when car is parked overnight

The fact that it corroded welsh plugs and eventually developed external coolant leak from head gasket over a couple of years time suggests air got in it before the rust was developed

And yes it was flushed regularly, just didn't notice that the water pump had the bolt missing until we opened the cover

Just suggesting the worst that can happen from what I have seen if you leave one bolt off from the water pump, may seem ok at first, but the above can happen over time, so it's not a good idea

Edited by chiksluvit
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I was just saying the problem with your statement was that air getting in is not going to be the consequence at the water pump. That will be coolant getting out, thus creating hot air pockets and then causing issues. You bust a fuel line off and you dont think 'oh crap, air will probably get In there'

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • Kapr
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By Kapr · Posted

      @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...