Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mmmmmm datalogging :rant:

Just waiting on the call for when the dyno is free. There's a race buggy on it and it gets priority as it is racing this weekend, which I'm happy enough waiting for as I have plenty of times spent my hard earned on race entry fees and worked until a few hours before to make it.

gtrken, to use the laptop software, did you have to use a specific dongle? what sort of connection is it? a serial to PS2 cable or something? could you post pics of the dongle?

FC Datalogit is your friend..... :rant:

Cheers

Ken

I still want an ADL though :D

Me too, but they were way too expensive...but plenty of ppl make them other then Motec. :aroused:

I was booked in to do the Motec course last year in Sydney but had to cancel because of work, is it worth the oney....im definetley doing the data acquisition seminar :D

Hey Vics,

Have done a search but can't find any specific info - was just wondering how much it costs to tune a Power FC?  

I was hoping around the $200 mark at somewhere like ICE, is this enough??

thanks

Dude, the only way you are going to find out is to call them

Gerald or Nigel are both champions

9512-7591

does that mean everytime you add for example an intercooler or change your setup in some form or manner, you are looking at $500 to re-tune?

I doubt it, I imagine it's initially more expensive to set up all of your map's properly and once this is done, addition of a bolt on like a FMIC should only need a bit of "tweaking"!

When someone does an initial tune, do they use the base map which is provided with the PowerFC and then tweak that?

Would the base map on the PowerFC need a lot of tweaking for the usual mods like exhaust, intercooler and a bit more boost??

Can the base map settings in the powerFC be retrieved if it is a second hand one (can it be reset)???

When the PowerFC first comes there is a basic map to get the car started so the tune can be performed. Any experienced FC tuner can just sit there and edit these values to get a very basic tune then dyno run it a couple of times and tweek it to get it perfect.

Yes add values can be be cleared. There is a data clear function in settings.

Adjustments and retunes would not cost the same as the inital setup. All you'd be paying for is the dyno time so it would be a lot cheaper.

Back with a result, the dyno map is in another thread I started but my money got me 220rwkw with the mongrel no breed turbo $250-300 is the going rate from Creatd and I am very happy.

Visit my thread for more. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=45419

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...