Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking to replace or rebuild r32 gtr gear box.

First of all just jap is selling a brand new r33 gtr gearbox for 2.9k (very tempting!) Which i already know is the better beefy box

Or

Can i rebuild my original box the same if not better for the same price as this r33 box

just asking ppls opinions on what i should do as im still new to the gtr scene.

Hope to hear back from yous, cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451991-need-help-on-gear-box-decision/
Share on other sites

Hi Ben, what's wrong with you current gearbox, and what are your future plans for the car?

They are a very strong box from the factory (not many cars come standard with a box that handles 2-3x factory power) so what you have may not need anything, particularly if it doesn't crunch on quick changes from 4th to 5th

If on the other hand you are building another 500kw time attack car, you will need something a bit more expensive.....

Hey theres nothing concerning with my box atm however there is a continuing howling noise coming from that area it could be the pressure plate or it could be manny things my machanic said cant put his finger on it so itll have to come out to find the problem...

theres no crunching ...ive never launched it so it hasnt been abused.

However ill be recoing the car looking to produce 300kw at the wheels or maybe 350kw if im lucky.

Just want everything done once and done right so i can just drive my car and nothing braking . At the end of the day its a 24 year old car and things need to be re-done or replaced.

Cheers, ben

33 gearboxes have been know to be more prone to breaking then 32 gearboxes, you would also need to change the clutch it self and the slave cylinder (unless yours is a 2/93>)

Have you check the basics like it actually having oil in it?

Also of it only needs a set of bearings it will be cheaper to recondition your gearbox

The stock box will be able to do that provided you don't try and rip the gearstick out of the box every time you change gears.

Like everything to do with cars, a little care goes a long way

There are very few differences between standard 32 and 33 gearboxes, and in any case the 32 stuff has been superseded by Nissan with the 33 series 3 internals; so if you rebuild your box you get 33 series 3 stuff anyway.

A standard box is fine for 350kw assuming you are not abusing it (and it sounds like you aren't). If your current gearbox is noisey (bearings) or crunchy (synchros) you can get it rebuilt for under 2k. But in most cases noisey is the thrust bearing which is external to the box and easily replaced, the second most common noise is the front bearing on the gearbox which can also be replaced without much trouble.

BTW you don't have to change the clutch to use a 33 gearbox, they can be converted back to r32 style (pull clutch) by swapping across the front cover of your current box into a 33 one. I bought a brand new 33 box years ago for the race car and did that conversion to suit 32.

Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket I wouldn't do anything gearbox wise

Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket I wouldn't do anything gearbox wise

If you get to this point the answer is Hollinger. As an aside Hollinger distribute Wavetrac - so how do we convince them to sell us some Wavetrac goodness for GTR's?

Edited by djr81

lol you can say it's name, it's the price that hurts....over 20k....

Plus sequentials are illegal in every racing category in Australia except supercars and Porsche cup.....so it would make an expensive trackday car

Bhaha sshiiit 20k later

And so it begins. Take note of the day you laughed at the prospect of spending $20k to fix a GTR.

lol you can say it's name, it's the price that hurts....over 20k....

Plus sequentials are illegal in every racing category in Australia except supercars and Porsche cup.....so it would make an expensive trackday car

Yeah but I just want a Wavetrac diff out of them. Which apparently they dont make from GTR's. See here for the full list of fail.

http://www.wavetrac.net/application.htm

Anything close to fitting the rear?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...