Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419955-looks-like-garrett-slipped-another-gtx30-variant-in/page-19?hl=%2B3071#entry7448162

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344089-garrett-medium-frame-gtx-turbos/page-58?hl=%2B3071#entry6324329

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-32?hl=%2B3071#entry5247046

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43864-new-garrett-3071r-experiences/page-4?hl=3071#entry1653759

And this is just 4 threads of 23 pages of threads, the 3071 has been around for quite a few years and in many variants. If you did some reading you would see this and be able to make your own informed comparative decision.

Its not up to people on here to do your research, but you could ask for help finding specifics if you got stuck. But I would think about how you actually did that, your present approach is somewhat lacking.................

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452858-3071r/#findComment-7463576
Share on other sites

I did look at that more specifically i was looking for dyno sheets. There is a difference with what people say and siting a dyno sheet. The only one that i could find that had a dynosheet only had the 3071 turbine so i would assume as a turbo newbie that it would be quite different to the one i have.

So in short i did do my research and couldnt find what i was after. This is why i posted here.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452858-3071r/#findComment-7463581
Share on other sites

:banana:If you havnt bought the turbo yet, just play it safe and get a GT3076 0,82 its proven and will satisfy most.. end of story.. also sounds awesome .. just pick your rear housing for the desired power/response , jobs done..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452858-3071r/#findComment-7463945
Share on other sites

Heaps of threads with info like you just gave me you peanut. I am after info on rb25 which if you actually look at it there is not much...

You see up there on top of this forum there is a RB25 dyno thread right?

GOOD info on turbos is probably the most plentiful information on this forum. I know because I routinely use the search button.

Edited by Kanaric
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452858-3071r/#findComment-7463985
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...