Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Idle Issues

barretdenis

By barretdenis,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

barretdenis Enthusiast

barretdenis

Posted
Posted

Hi

My R33 has developed an odd idle issue when you back off acceleration.

The car has an auto box. You can be driving along and take your food off the gas to slow down for a set of lights and the Revs will occasionally drop as low as 500rpm and then bounce back to normal; this does not happen every time though.

I have had two occasions when the engine stopped, however it starts and idles perfectly and drives without issue.

I've cleaned the AFM, new air cleaner, new plugs. Any advices?

Thanks

Denis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Atmo BOV? - Get rid of it

Factory ECU? - After cleaning AAC valve, try resetting the ECU (disconnect battery, operate lights etc, to drain residual power, re-connect battery, start car)

It has been covered qutie a few times before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7463815
Share on other sites
barretdenis Enthusiast

barretdenis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The engine was fully rebuilt with forged piston, greddy intake manifold, larger injectors, hi flowed turbo, turbosmart blowoff valve, bigger intercooler, Z32 AFM (cleaned regularly) etc etc. The engine has only done 12,000kms in 4 years. There are no mud issues in the AAC or any of the usual issues that are eluded to the great how sections.

Idle is perfect with no fluctuations while sitting. It's only occasionally when you take you foot off the gas to slow for lights etc that the idle drops to 500rpm or lower and then rights itself. This has only occurred in the last few weeks.

I was swaying towards the Turbosmart blowoff valve, but all checked and cleaned and appears OK

Would a TPS cause this? I thought it unlikely.

Sorry if I was somewhat grumpy; you get that way when you're over 60.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7463852
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I dont have any experience with Autos but I had issues when I went from atmo BOV back to stock. Cleaned AAC and all that and it didnt help. Reset the ECU and it returned to idle fine

But im not sure if you are running stock ECU

The TPS on auto has a digital and analog input to the ECU. The on off part is important on Autos if I recall correctly ( the analog voltage signal is important to both auto and manual) the digital input is easy to check with a meter, run a continuity check accross the 2 pin plug with throttle closed and then open the throttle. It should go from closed circuit to open (or vice versa, been a while since I checked)

The other analog sensor is best checked with consult or the correct software for your ECU. Should be 0.45V

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7463875
Share on other sites
skylinecouple Experienced

skylinecouple

Posted
Posted

Hey Dennis, try turning your idle air screw counter clockwise till the engine starts to rev higher. Then turn it clockwise one full turn. Sometimes people fool around with this screw and it can cause major idle issues as you have described. Another possible fix could be to lean off the fuel under 800rpm but this depends on the tune in that area so may not help. I am always concerned about changes to the blow off valve as this usually always causes issues. Make sure it is plumbed back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7464343
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

RB25's tend to want to run a bit rich at idle. I think as rich as 13.2:1 I've seen to give a nice smooth idle.

Off the top of my head I used to run 13.6:1 when I had the Power FC in mine.

Agree about the idle screw, was thinking that the other day. If its wound all the way in the solenoid/valve might be able to compensate just enough to idle, but when its going from higher revs to idle, it can't adjust quick enough or far enough to give a smooth idle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7464663
Share on other sites
Scott Black Rising Star

Scott Black

Posted
Posted

Well after checking all possibilities I turned to the Turbosmart BOV. After winding it back to the softest setting I discovered no more idle issues.

Why?? You tell me.

Easy the stock.ecu likes having the stock bov, a aftermarket bov on softer settings are more like the factory bov

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7467261
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • wizlb
      Flex Fuel Kit Workshop

      By wizlb · Posted

      Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • Piggaz
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By Piggaz · Posted

      I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...