Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 words about the datto...... F**KING HANDFUL

took me a bit to get used to it as it handles like a boat but after a little bit of advise from a friendly rotary driver I was starting to get the hang of slinging it sideways....

As Duncan has already said it needs a few things:

1. STIFF AND LOW suspension

2. Smaller steering wheel

3. MUCH tighter handbrake

4. New Seat

5. New Engine and 5 speed gearbox (pending compression test)

6. New Radiator

All in all I was fairly happy with the way it went throughout the day, the locked diff certainly provided some entertainment for the crowd watching at times :P

  • 1 month later...

mmm, ran it at the UAS dyno today, everything was OK but even the stickers couldn't get it the extra .3 rkwk it needed :(

datto_dyno.jpg

BTW, does anyone know a good Datto suspension workshop in sydney?

Cheap rebuild - buy Z22 motor (cheap) use +2 oversize pistons , L20B head timing cover mild cam better carby and exhaust and bluebird 5 spd . I can't believe you didn't look for one with semi trailing arm IRS . With the 4 link you will never stop it doing the rear steer thing . H series diffs are a bastard to work on and very limited in suitable ratios . LSD's are rare and expensive . If it was me I'd have been paying the loan off on a cheap N/A S13 or R32 . Far more competitive standard and all the good bits fall in . Still for a project could be good .

you know, we expected to need a rebuild by now but the bloody thing hasn't died yet.

gee its nice how cheap parts are for older aus cars too....$50 for a secondhand engine, makes $6000 for an rb26 look pretty poor....100hp/$50 = 5c per hp versus 280hp/$6000 = $21.42 per hp :D

yeah the IRS would have been a better starting point...but this car was the right price....and we now have a *very* limited slip diff due to our good friend the mig welder :(

Stewart Wilkins knows his datto stuff, thats where i get my bits from...also try SSS automotive although i think they may have moved away from the older stuff now....

The recipe for a good torquey L series combo consists of(ive built one b4)......

  • L18 Block
  • Double counterweight crankshaft, I avoid using the single weight cranks.
  • L24 flywheel, lighter than the 4cyl ones and accepts the larger diameter clutch plate and pressure plate(i think Navara is lighter again, but dont quote me)
  • 720 4WD Clutch
  • L16 conrods, as they are 2.9mm longer than the L18 rods. This improves the rod ratio from 1.66 to 1.7, giving more bottom end torque. The standard datsun piston has a 2.9mm deep dish in the top. So by fitting L16 conrods and machining the piston flat, you end up with a zero deck height, flat top piston bottom end, that has a better rod ratio than the L20B (1.68).
  • 60 thou oversize pistons
  • Stanza SSS gbox...better ratios and reverse is directly above 1st making it ideal for a kana car.
    R 2 4
    1 3 5

You can take an L18 to 140thou over and use toyota pistons if u wish...they have massively thick bores.

Z22 + 2 = 2290cc which still revs reliably and uses cheap common L20B accessories ie buy bore bolt . The larger capacity engines make a broad usable torque curve which is needed for motor khana . If you want to spend more money the L Series head will go onto a Z24 block with a bit of work . KA24's are better again but use the SR20 bell housing pattern . It comes down to how much you wish to spend . If its not much just freshen up the L20B .

I forgot one thing, the L18 head has the best design combustion chambers of all the L series 4's.....the 200b has the largest port size.. you choose which one you want, but i'd go the L18 and port it out and fit the larger valves.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...