Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Searched half a day but no luck finding the info.

New setup:

R33 Track Only

RB25/30

E85

Fuel cell -> Filter -> Bosch 044 -> Surge Tank -> 2 x Bosch 044 -> check valve -> Y merger -> Filter -> Stock fuel line -> Stock side feed fuel rail, 1200cc injectors, stock FPR

My questions are whether the items highlighted in red is capable to run 400rwkw on E85?

Thanks in advance lads.

Edited by kliono

1200cc side feeds? Damn they are using big drill bits these days...

Yes, they should flow enough, although the fpr may not bypass enough with twin 044's (causing high base fuel pressure.) I guess you don't care about what happens at idle and cruise though as it's track only.

  • Like 1

Yeah hahaha I just read heaps on the JECS injectors review. A lot of people had issues running unleaded (idling etc) above 750cc, shit latency and poor spray pattern. Aside from those few people had issues brand spanking new injectors stuck running e85 so different fuel different problems. I'm going to flush them after track anyway by running it with unleaded so no big dramas.

With the flow, I can weld fittings on both end of the stock side feed fuel rail and cap off the original entry and exit, run sard fpr if that helps?

Circuit Sports do a side feed rail which I believe is dual entry, but could be wrong

I agree that you may as well go top feed modern injectors, but if you are hell bent on sticking with side feed then I would suggest the circuit sports rail

You'll be fine. It will flow the fuel no issues. Those 1200cc injectors are a bit iffy though.

Many people have had them die and I met someone who destroyed an engine because it failed under load

 

Circuit Sports do a side feed rail which I believe is dual entry, but could be wrong

I agree that you may as well go top feed modern injectors, but if you are hell bent on sticking with side feed then I would suggest the circuit sports rail

 

Not at all man. Sometimes if the stock components are up to the task then there is no point spending the money, same logic as forging a 300hp RB with no plans of bigger power. Decided last night, going to go with:

ID2000 injectors

Proflow top feed fuel rail kit RB25 plenum

Sard FPR

The JECS 1200cc is now stupidly expensive to what it is worth at $800AUD + shipping thanks to the conversion rate.

 

I was making 490rwkws E85 on stock fuel rail and lines. They are fine.

 

Hypergear, sorry, to elaborate some more for people that may google this question in the future. These are on;

1. Stock lines

2. Stock RB25 side feed fuel rail (non modified entry/exit)

3. Stock fuel pressure regulator

4. Injector size?

490rwkw nice!

For the questions:

1. Stock lines
Yes
2. Stock RB25 side feed fuel rail (non modified entry/exit)
Yes
3. Stock fuel pressure regulator
Sard fuel reg.
4. Injector size?
Ebay Junk 5x0 1200cc injectors.

they work, but they are shit

they idle, but idle rich

they are gay, yes..

here's an entire thread I started on nissansilvia.com about them:

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2441472

enjoy the read... then once you're done, convert to top feed:

http://www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/

and here's your chance to score a top feed conversion kit at a good price

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452356-bilstein-shocks-apexi-power-fc-for-ecr33-rb25-top-feed-fuel-rail-splitfire-coilpacks-syd/?p=7468587

just need to get the injectors and harness separately and you're set

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...