Jump to content
SAU Community

What Fmic For R32 Gts-t?

self_slaughter

By self_slaughter,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I have a stock GTR lip on GTR bar on (just) minimum legal height R32. I creep it through spoon drains, driveways etc and the entire underside is still scratched from those times when the creeping wasn't enough or brain fade leads to forgetting to do it diagonally, etc. The paint on the front surface ends up cracking because of the flex when the lip makes contact with something. Buggered if I want my intercooler piping to be taking that force.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

I have a stock GTR lip on GTR bar on (just) minimum legal height R32. I creep it through spoon drains, driveways etc and the entire underside is still scratched from those times when the creeping wasn't enough or brain fade leads to forgetting to do it diagonally, etc. The paint on the front surface ends up cracking because of the flex when the lip makes contact with something. Buggered if I want my intercooler piping to be taking that force.

My bonnet latch support is bent like a banana because of that.

Cooler mounted off the brace, which when the return piping touched the ground, has f**ked everything

CEF33Y Experienced

CEF33Y

Posted
Posted

I Kept mine stock looking too, did similar to what GTSBoy's saying, ran the return pipe behind the cooler.

If your handy with a welder that would be easiest/cheapest option, just get a generic core, make pipes to run from where they come out of engine bay to cooler.

The bottom return flow type would have been too low for my car, but if your at legal height (guess so, cause you're keeping the rest stock looking ;) it might be the easiest option, should come it kit form from just jap or the like.

Actually, if your after less than 220rwkw, just get a r34 sidemount. easier again.

Wow, prob confused you more, lol.

Badgaz Experienced

Badgaz

Posted
Posted

i do think the r32's front sits lower...but its not as much of an issue with a 'normal' lowered height r33 i suppose...the wifes r32 GTR is worse on driveways than my car and suspension height is actually lower than hers.

self_slaughter Contributor

self_slaughter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This has given me some good food for thought. I like having my ride at a good height so I don't have to worry about hitting concrete stops in parking lots etc.

Might have to chat with an engineer and see if I should cut a hole under the battery and get it reinforced for a normal intercooler or get some custom pipes fabricated to run the return flow behind the intercooler.

Probably going to have to get it re engineered since moving from WA to QLD anyway so might be worth looking into and getting it all done at once.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

No need to cut holes for cross flow intercooler piping, either run it up beside the radiator shroud or back around behind the cooler for that stock bay look. Either can support 400kw with a 3 inch core and 2.5 inch piping, just make sure the Ubend is smooth by using a tight donut bend.

  • 7 months later...
self_slaughter Contributor

self_slaughter

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Just as an update to the thread I ended up going with a blitz return flow for now.

Also put new shocks and king spring lows on the old girl.

Engine bay still looks stock, return flow pipe sits damn near in line with the front bar and so far so good height wise.

Here's a couple of pics I could find.

Car was filthy from sitting at work and had a flat front left tyre in the finished shot, but you get the idea. :)

No cutting of the REO was necessary either, just a trim of the front bar and relocating the horns slightly.

I might have to hit you up soon Scotty if you're still in business for some 1000cc injectors and an induction pipe (Mines sucking shut) before I get her tuned.

Already got the nistune board installed, just gotta find a good tuner in qld. :)

post-43868-0-90909000-1442318469_thumb.jpg

post-43868-0-60385400-1442318485_thumb.jpg

Edited by self_slaughter
self_slaughter Contributor

self_slaughter

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Oh. Here's a shot of just how f**ked my old intercooler was internally.

I've never seen anything quite like it!

High resolution link if you really want to be disgusted... http://i.imgur.com/mC4BhVy.png

post-43868-0-96539100-1442320054_thumb.jpg

Edited by self_slaughter
self_slaughter Contributor

self_slaughter

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah. I killed the old rb20 hitting a flooded bit of road, then the car just sat for about 7 years before I decided to resurrect it... Guessing the intercooler was full of water for quite a while. Surprised she could breathe at all!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...