A Few Small Question Regarding My Upcoming Efr Build..

[cobrAA]

a 400+rwkw turbo on an rb26.... to my definition, it will be laggy (-5's are bad enough). If set up correctly, it will be one of the better lag v's power turbo's... but laggy compared to a well set up low mount (N1, GTSS, -7, t517z) rb26.

Being easy on the gearbox will go along way to helping it survive, but 3rd gear just strips.... it just does.

I had a brand new replacement gearbox in my GTR, low mount's and the 3 or 4th pass down the strip 3rd gear just disappeared. I was even granny shifting (not double clutching like I should).

Again, I hope it all goes well for you. I hope you get your oiling system sorted out.... but start saving for a couple of gearboxes or a gear set.

sorted the oil issue ;

+ I went with a Mishimoto oil/air /catchcan plumbback in the sump ( neat item)

I'M looking at fuel line and rail.. and an already built gearbox i could buy from yahoo auction. ( I don't want to rebuilt one or buy anything in the +6k like ppg and stuff)

[XRATED]

OS Giken 1-3 gearset, to go along with your R33 GTR spec upgrade parts is probably the best value for money if your looking to keep it a nice syncro box with a bit of insurance.

mishimoto catch can... are you going to install that between the turbo intake and passenger side cam cover (similar to the nismo separator)?

... if your going to run e85, just make sure it's Teflon lined.

Cheers

J.

[cobrAA]

Hey J,

i will ask my mechanic to do it, bu tplan is to copy nismo setup, they sure know better than me how to set it up right !

I will only be running octane + water/meth.

I will look into the box but from now, my plan were to buy new synchro (300$) and shot peen/WPC input + gearset which would cost approx. 1000$ + labour... when you factor other option at 3k$ for a OS closegear, might as well go with that.. or i could even ask AGY to rebuild one for me with their double synchro and treat myself.

At this time, i think its best for me to simply find a good rebuilded box on the used marked and be patient... in the mean time, i will be kind and not launch the car.. if it break. i will find another used box for 400$..

[Piggaz]

Launching the car isn't the issue though..... Unless you launch it in 3rd.

[cobrAA]

Launching the car isn't the issue though..... Unless you launch it in 3rd.

Please correct me, if you launch, isnt the load/shock on the tranny more important while shifting till 4th.. instead of simply acceleration at 30kmh ?

With that said, I appreciate all your input, I found 1 tranny shop near me that does supra, evo, GTR and review are excellent, they can modify synchro and such... but no mention of 5speed gearbox, waiting for their reply..

If not, I'm really interesting in a Autogallery rebuilt. If I go AG-Y, i will surely be asking more question ( the oem kit without cross-gear is not bad at 225k yen. but if you add center plate ( 90k) + input shaft (90k) + cross-mission ( 190k) its a different story ! Might just go with the oem refresh kit with double synchro + T-case rebuilt and fit a OS giken center plate since its cheaper.

[cobrAA]

BTW, Could you advice me on a ''fair-priced'' fuel delivery for rb26 ? i already have nismo reg, 1000cc injector and fuel pump.

[GTSBoy]

Please correct me, if you launch, isnt the load/shock on the tranny more important while shifting till 4th.. instead of simply acceleration at 30kmh ?

It's not the shock load of changing into gear that kills 3rd. They just aren't strong enough to take all the load at max torque and give up once you're making a certain amount of power.

[XRATED]

BTW, Could you advice me on a ''fair-priced'' fuel delivery for rb26 ? i already have nismo reg, 1000cc injector and fuel pump.

SARD surge tank with a single in tank pump big enough for 450rwkw on gasoline.... walbro 460???

Rest is fine.

Edited March 8, 2015 by XRATED

[cobrAA]

Well we're pretty much set now,

Something else came up to my mind, Wiringspecialist do ECU harness + tranny harness (tranny, starter,alternator) for 650usd. I'm wondering if it would be worth the price to swap this, your thought ?

Haltech doesn't really use the knock sensor ( as I,M told by my tuner), i got their wideband kit, im MAP now and I have their igniter module with new oem harness and new oem coilpack ( maybe I should've gone with LS coilpack since some kit are now pretty bolt-on, but my tuner told me he was able to make 800whp no problem on new oem coils, so why bothers ?). Most of my remaining OEM sensor are new from last year. So basicly, the only thing not changed is the wiring.

[HarrisRacing]

It's not the shock load of changing into gear that kills 3rd. They just aren't strong enough to take all the load at max torque and give up once you're making a certain amount of power.

I asked this question in my build thread and didn't get a reply. Can you elaborate on how much power/torque we are taking about as a safe limit? I rally don't like doing work twice.

How's the R34 box swap as far as power ratings?

Sorry to hijack your thread but I felt it applies.

Edit I see you answered 400wkw on previous page. What about the r34 box?

And what about the front diff?

Edited March 22, 2015 by HarrisRacing

[GTSBoy]

That's the same as asking how long is a piece of string. A bunch of semi-random factors added together. Some will break at lower power levels, some will appear to hold a lot of power for a long time. Same as ceramic turbos.

The 400wkW number is in the ballpark of where shit starts to be a problem though. It's not comforting to those that broke 3rd gear with 350 though!

[breaker1845]

GTSBoy is right. There are plenty of random factors involved in breaking a gearbox but the 400awkw is about the mark where it gets expensive for transmissions and diffs.

The stock 6 speed R34 gearbox is a getrag and can take a beating much better than the 5 speed r33/r32 boxes can. The r33 gearboxes (I think series 3) are supposed to be stronger as opposed to r32 boxes.

If you got plenty of cash buy an OS88 or something that you won't have issues with unless you constantly want to change gearboxes if you break them.

Having said that if you aren't tracking it 24/7 and only doing the occasional track run, being gentle with the gear changes (especially 3rd and 4th will help a lot).

If it was me I'd get like a quaife or nismo diff for the front, upgraded/refreshed transfer case and probably run the stock r33 series gearbox and then if something breaks, upgrade or run the stronger internals depending on my intentions.

[cobrAA]

hey guys,

I totally forgot about the head drain back, should I go for the spool drain back which is thinner than the other ?

the drinak back alone is 85.. while the kit is 195.. are the fititng and hose that much expensive ? should i just go for th ecomplete kit or make my own one ?

Just saw the hi-octane sump weld-on.. hopefully i made the right choice with RIPS extension .. that hi-octane look really neat too

[JH32]

.. hopefully i made the right choice with RIPS extension ..

Yes, yes you did

[cobrAA]

oopsy, i've read a bit more about the drain head back and seem slike its not worth and could actually be worse than leave it like that.. guess i will pass on that mod !

[GTR_JOEY]

Explain this^

[KiwiRS4T]

So called "head drain" doesn't. Venting the sump (to a catch can) and installing restrictors works better.

[GTR_JOEY]

Thought he was talking about rear water drain

[cobrAA]

Thought he was talking about rear water drain

oh no, talking about the spool drain kit for oil.

Already planned to plumb back my mishimoto baffled can to the rips sump.