Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good notes Adam!

Definitely one of the biggest themes of the day was how the driveline is designed with shock absorbing capability, and changing this with stiffer components can lead to damage if the whole system isn't appropriately matched.

Yeah i reckon its something like this below - area under the curve is the same, but peak load/force is much lower with a soft (sprung) clutch. Engineering 101.

114937-largest_asphalt_545.jpg

  • Like 1

Cheers guys for another great tech arvo.

Thanks to Award, Terry and Trish :)

Learnt some new things and got in some laughs as well.

Thanks Adam for the notes as well!
Will be looking forward to the next one :)

Was a damn shame I missed this, with both sleeping in and my calendar reminder not set properly I got the reminder 10 min's before the event :(

"Solid mounting of diff cradles also increases rigidity in a way that's detrimental (for the gearbox? or drive train more generally?), so make especially sure you use a sprung center clutch if you have a solidly mounted diff cradle."

This is good to know as I've just fitted a diff craddle and will be putting in the g'box brace in soon too, guess with the brass button clutch this is going to destroy my gearbox prematurely. :) JOY hahaa

oh, and lol.. not sure how many people found out in the day, but it turns out Terry and Trish live 2 doors down from me. It didn't click until we went outside for the ridiculously big spread they put on and i saw their car.

all in all, i think i learnt more from this tech session than any of the others.... thanks to all involved in organizing and putting the day on.

shift sedately and you will be fine, so no time attack shifts for you just yet!

I'm sure you'll find it's not so much how you shift the box as it is how you reengage the clutch that destroys boxes, this will apply to both going up AND down gears, should be done just like a motorbike, find friction point then release clutch not find floor then release clutch

  • Like 1

The other bit I got out of the day (more informative than anything) is that the only major difference between the series 3 BCNR33 boxes and other 32/33 boxes is that the syncros are "pad-type" rather than held in by circlips and also have a stronger (bigger) 5th gear synchro making them the design of choice if you have the option.

He also recommended that cleaning the gearbox can be done by running ATF in it for a while. Could be useful for those wanting to move away from smurfsblood which is nearly impossible to remove.

It was also interesting that Terry mentioned there is not a major difference in the various LSDs out there however for big power/time attack cars he did seem to recommend the Cusco up front. Seems he can also modify the standard ones making it potentially a cheaper option.

I'm sure you'll find it's not so much how you shift the box as it is how you reengage the clutch that destroys boxes, this will apply to both going up AND down gears, should be done just like a motorbike, find friction point then release clutch not find floor then release clutch

brass button clutch what friction point ?? HAHA

It was also interesting that Terry mentioned there is not a major difference in the various LSDs out there however for big power/time attack cars he did seem to recommend the Cusco up front. Seems he can also modify the standard ones making it potentially a cheaper option.

Yeah i think we was saying that like gearboxes, which are pretty much all the same in how they work, the factory, Nismo, Cusco etc LSDs are also pretty much the same. He can setup the rear to be tighter, however, since the after market ones are larger/beefier they will last longer.

I destroyed 5 brass buttons in 2 years due to the torque and everyone of them had a friction point

The distance between off and on was very very small though

no worries I have no torque HAHA




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
    • You sir, big win tonight. Precision never supplied compressor maps in the past and Idk when they started, but it seems they only offer for a few of the older gen2's which is exactly what I have. I punched in some numbers and seem to have gone with the wrong turbo. 600-700whp isn't in the most efficient area and is close to the choke line. 800whp is well off the map. Punching the numbers into a 68mm gen2 turbo map is bang on in the center. Here I was thinking going smaller would shift the power band down, but in reality it would just make it so much worst due to my rev limit. I would have never thought. 
    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
×
×
  • Create New...