Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you seen the size of the rods? One of the reasons the rods are almost bullet proof is that fact the stroke is so short. The pistons are also really short and stumpy. The leverage needed to bend them would be rediculous (Never said is impossible) Im not using stock rods cos im cheap. Im using them to prove a point.

Have you seen the size of the rods? One of the reasons the rods are almost bullet proof is that fact the stroke is so short. The pistons are also really short and stumpy. The leverage needed to bend them would be rediculous (Never said is impossible) Im not using stock rods cos im cheap. Im using them to prove a point.

Pistons where $300 barely used with rods lol im building the engine myself.

these 2 post contradict each other

How so? Lol im using stock rods with pistons? Im stating stock rods or any rb26 rod will be harder to bend? Like i said lol

Im not putting chinese h beams in my engine. Ill stick what nissan made.

Anyways this post has turned to what i should do. As far as im concerned its not your build its mine. Ill do whatever im gunna do. Lets keep it on topic. Only one person since has actual evidence of rods out performing, rest are just irrelevant "comments"

I would never use stock rods in any serious build without spending hours and hours on them; on the linisher, on the scales, on the x-ray machine, etc etc. And if there were very good aftermarket rods available at a reasonable price then I would have to value my time at nearly zero to justify doing all that instead of just buying the good aftermarket ones.

Just sayin'.

Edited by GTSBoy

Years ago (back in the 70's and early 80's) when aftermarket rods were really expensive, we would spends days preping stock rods to be a "little" better than the stock items.

Today looking back at it, its pointless to try this, the labor cost of shot peeing, resizing and balancing the rods is much higher today compared to what labor costs were back then VS new aftermarket rod costs of today, its simply no longer economical to mod stock rods.

I simply wouldnt throw out stockers and put some aftermarket ones in, and then sleep at night knowing i had something even stronger than the modded stockies.

I would never use stock rods in any serious build without spending hours and hours on them; on the linisher, on the scales, on the x-ray machine, etc etc. And if there were very good aftermarket rods available at a reasonable price then I would have to value my time at nearly zero to justify doing all that instead of just buying the good aftermarket ones.

Just sayin'.

yeah....but he is proving a point....not sure what that point is exactly....but im sure it is pertinent.

but hey...300 dollar used pistons.....what could go wrong...

37 comments. Only one thats worth taking serious. Rest is "advice" from people who have never ACTUALLY done it. Infact most of you dont even own a rb26, or even built a engine.

"Adam's R34 GTR now makes 557kw@31psi with a small shot of nos, and 509kw@29psi without nos.

It has a stock RB26 with cams, gears, springs, studs all drop in, HKS T51R turbo, custom fuel system with triple 044 and under car surge tank all manufactured in house, nismo cooler, os triple plate clutch, intercooler, all controlled by a Haltech Platinum Pro and I/O box setup.

Adam wants to see what the stock bottom end can take. Looking forward to power cruise tomorrow."

-Just Engine Management

Keep your eyes peeled ladies.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...