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Anfanee Grand Master

Anfanee

Posted
Posted (edited)

think it's worth getting Cusco rear/Whiteline front, or just buy the nismo kit for front and rear?

This has been shitting me for a while, about time i got around to it.

Or should i say worth buying the nismo kit as it is more kesh....

Edited by Anfanee
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

think it's worth getting Cusco rear/Whiteline front, or just buy the nismo kit for front and rear?

This has been shitting me for a while, about time i got around to it.

Or should i say worth buying the nismo kit as it is more kesh....

The problem with it all is the different manufacturers use different tube/rod – some are hollow, some (Whiteline) are solid and none quote the same figures for comparison purposes. I haven’t yet seen anyone quote an inside diameter – not for the standard type or the aftermarket stuff either. You can make some guesses (I haven’t seen spring steel in tube) as to the wall thickness but they are just guesses. Anyway here is what I can find.

Standard

Front 20mm od - hollow.

Rear 25.4mm

Nismo

Front 22.2 od (hollow) and quoted at 18.1N/mm whatever that means.

Read 27.2 od (hollow) and quoted at 113.9N/mm

Cusco

Front 24mm and 190% stiffer than standard. I take this to mean 1.9 times the standard rate but may be 2.9. 1.9 appears more likely.

Rear 30mm and 162% stiffer than standard.

There also may (MAY) be a 24mm adjustable front (Part number quoted 282 311AJ24) and a 28mm non adjustable rear 282 311 B28 (quoted at 185% compare to standard). These I have never seen.

Whiteline

Front 22mm solid bar.

Rear 24mm solid bar.

Both are adjustable. Extra stiffness is not stated.

ARC

Front No diameter shown but 2.4 x standard rate. Adjustable.

Rear No diameter shown but 1.8 x standard rate. Adjustable. Also $$$$’s.

Maybe someone else has some figures or an idea or what tube would be used – the Cusco appears to be metric in size, the other Japanese Imperial.

FWIW I have a Cusco rear and a Whiteline front. Can always add front stiffness in if the rear is too much.

RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted

I own both a R32 GTR and a S2000.

I can assure you, the S2000 will always out brake you and have a higher mid corner speed, stock for stock.

Mod for mod, same again.

Your only saving grace will be the ability to get on the power quicker and pull away on the straight sections.

Then watch the S2000 start pulling you in on the corners and twisties. :)

If it upsets you, stick to tracks with long straight sections, minimal corners or wet days......

Too true.

Except I wouldn't say minimal corners. The tighter the corners the more a 32-34 GTR will lose to S2000's, 86's etc. Fast sweeping corners on the other hand the GTR's will do well on. (i.e Phillip Island)

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

N/mm would say that you require X Newtons of force to deflect the ends of the bar apart from rest position by 1mm.

The Cusco bar claiming 190% stiffer would not be 190% stiffer. It would be 190% of original stiffness. So 90% stiffer. That's just based on doing (24^4)/(20^4) and coming up with a ratio of 2. That would be about right regardless of the difference in wall thickness between original and the Cusco bar, and would easily explain the difference between 1.9 climed and 2.0 calculated.

The Whiteline front 24mm bar will be a bit more than double the stiffness of the original, seeing as it is solid and the original is hollow.

None of the these bars would be made out of tube or pipe type products. You can buy hollow bar in various sizes. I would suspect that most hollow bars have very thick walls.

If you want to know how to calculate the effect of the hollow centre, the stiffness of a 24mm solid bar is proportional to the 4th power of that diameter. So just call it 24^4. The stiffness of the hollow bar is proportional to the difference between the diameter of the that is there and the the diameter of the steel that has been removed (from the solid bar). So a 24mm OD 18mm ID bar would have stiffness 24^4 - 18^4, which is only 68% of the solid bar. Hence why I suspect that hollow bars must have very thick walls.

All of the above assumes the same material properties between different manufacturers, which is of course not necessarily true. Probably close enough most of the time, but certainly not to be relied upon if trying to pick them to within 10%.

Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted

Okay....

So....

Full whiteline, full nismo, or full Cusco?

Cost i don't really care about.

Opinions on what to buy........

If it helps Anf I have whiteline front and rear with HD links at both ends

Car is muff stiffer all round (especially front end) yet to test it out on track but on the road you point where you want it go and it shoots there instantly where before it was sluggish.

Whiiteline is fairly reasonable price wise and even got a free strut front strut brace (no doubt still managed to pay for it somehow)

But since you mentioned you dont care about costs - you know you want nismo :D

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

FWIW i emailled [email protected] the question "Can you tell me how much stiffer this bar is, when using the hard setting, over standard?" (subject of email was BNR26XZ stiffness spec over standard). The response was:

"This bar is much bigger than OE and as a result, you will see an increase of approx. 230-250% in rate."

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