Jump to content
SAU Community

Sway Bars Gt-r

Blackkers
 Share

Recommended Posts

Anfanee Grand Master

Anfanee

Posted
Posted (edited)

think it's worth getting Cusco rear/Whiteline front, or just buy the nismo kit for front and rear?

This has been shitting me for a while, about time i got around to it.

Or should i say worth buying the nismo kit as it is more kesh....

Edited by Anfanee
djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

think it's worth getting Cusco rear/Whiteline front, or just buy the nismo kit for front and rear?

This has been shitting me for a while, about time i got around to it.

Or should i say worth buying the nismo kit as it is more kesh....

The problem with it all is the different manufacturers use different tube/rod – some are hollow, some (Whiteline) are solid and none quote the same figures for comparison purposes. I haven’t yet seen anyone quote an inside diameter – not for the standard type or the aftermarket stuff either. You can make some guesses (I haven’t seen spring steel in tube) as to the wall thickness but they are just guesses. Anyway here is what I can find.

Standard

Front 20mm od - hollow.

Rear 25.4mm

Nismo

Front 22.2 od (hollow) and quoted at 18.1N/mm whatever that means.

Read 27.2 od (hollow) and quoted at 113.9N/mm

Cusco

Front 24mm and 190% stiffer than standard. I take this to mean 1.9 times the standard rate but may be 2.9. 1.9 appears more likely.

Rear 30mm and 162% stiffer than standard.

There also may (MAY) be a 24mm adjustable front (Part number quoted 282 311AJ24) and a 28mm non adjustable rear 282 311 B28 (quoted at 185% compare to standard). These I have never seen.

Whiteline

Front 22mm solid bar.

Rear 24mm solid bar.

Both are adjustable. Extra stiffness is not stated.

ARC

Front No diameter shown but 2.4 x standard rate. Adjustable.

Rear No diameter shown but 1.8 x standard rate. Adjustable. Also $$$$’s.

Maybe someone else has some figures or an idea or what tube would be used – the Cusco appears to be metric in size, the other Japanese Imperial.

FWIW I have a Cusco rear and a Whiteline front. Can always add front stiffness in if the rear is too much.

RBN1 Mentor

RBN1

Posted
Posted

I own both a R32 GTR and a S2000.

I can assure you, the S2000 will always out brake you and have a higher mid corner speed, stock for stock.

Mod for mod, same again.

Your only saving grace will be the ability to get on the power quicker and pull away on the straight sections.

Then watch the S2000 start pulling you in on the corners and twisties. :)

If it upsets you, stick to tracks with long straight sections, minimal corners or wet days......

Too true.

Except I wouldn't say minimal corners. The tighter the corners the more a 32-34 GTR will lose to S2000's, 86's etc. Fast sweeping corners on the other hand the GTR's will do well on. (i.e Phillip Island)

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

N/mm would say that you require X Newtons of force to deflect the ends of the bar apart from rest position by 1mm.

The Cusco bar claiming 190% stiffer would not be 190% stiffer. It would be 190% of original stiffness. So 90% stiffer. That's just based on doing (24^4)/(20^4) and coming up with a ratio of 2. That would be about right regardless of the difference in wall thickness between original and the Cusco bar, and would easily explain the difference between 1.9 climed and 2.0 calculated.

The Whiteline front 24mm bar will be a bit more than double the stiffness of the original, seeing as it is solid and the original is hollow.

None of the these bars would be made out of tube or pipe type products. You can buy hollow bar in various sizes. I would suspect that most hollow bars have very thick walls.

If you want to know how to calculate the effect of the hollow centre, the stiffness of a 24mm solid bar is proportional to the 4th power of that diameter. So just call it 24^4. The stiffness of the hollow bar is proportional to the difference between the diameter of the that is there and the the diameter of the steel that has been removed (from the solid bar). So a 24mm OD 18mm ID bar would have stiffness 24^4 - 18^4, which is only 68% of the solid bar. Hence why I suspect that hollow bars must have very thick walls.

All of the above assumes the same material properties between different manufacturers, which is of course not necessarily true. Probably close enough most of the time, but certainly not to be relied upon if trying to pick them to within 10%.

Ants Grand Master

Ants

Posted
Posted

Okay....

So....

Full whiteline, full nismo, or full Cusco?

Cost i don't really care about.

Opinions on what to buy........

If it helps Anf I have whiteline front and rear with HD links at both ends

Car is muff stiffer all round (especially front end) yet to test it out on track but on the road you point where you want it go and it shoots there instantly where before it was sluggish.

Whiiteline is fairly reasonable price wise and even got a free strut front strut brace (no doubt still managed to pay for it somehow)

But since you mentioned you dont care about costs - you know you want nismo :D

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

FWIW i emailled [email protected] the question "Can you tell me how much stiffer this bar is, when using the hard setting, over standard?" (subject of email was BNR26XZ stiffness spec over standard). The response was:

"This bar is much bigger than OE and as a result, you will see an increase of approx. 230-250% in rate."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...