Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello everyone i was wondering as to what clutch i should put in my r33 gtr. i have recently bought this car and its now due for a major service as the clutch is on the way out i though now would be a good time to replace it.

i was looking at getting an exedy sports tuff clutch as i have heard

that they are good, keep in mind that my gtr is bone stock.

so would this be a good buy or is there something better on the market. :rolleyes:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/
Share on other sites

The $ rules, but if it is staying stock , why not a stock or re build, they seem pretty tough or any quality single plate.

If you are going to wind it up later , I find the Nismo Coppermix Twin C Spec great , take a lot of KWs and so easy to use, spend a bit more now and save some $s later :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502459
Share on other sites

hello everyone i was wondering as to what clutch i should put in my r33 gtr. i have recently bought this car and its now due for a major service as the clutch is on the way out i though now would be a good time to replace it.

i was looking at getting an exedy sports tuff clutch as i have heard

that they are good, keep in mind that my gtr is bone stock.

so would this be a good buy or is there something better on the market. :rolleyes:

I've had one of these in my GT St for 11 years,no complaints from me. :-)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502491
Share on other sites

The $ rules, but if it is staying stock , why not a stock or re build, they seem pretty tough or any quality single plate.

If you are going to wind it up later , I find the Nismo Coppermix Twin C Spec great , take a lot of KWs and so easy to use, spend a bit more now and save some $s later :)

its only going to be stock for another month or there about, so i wanted something that can handle a bit of a power upgrade and still last a while.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502524
Share on other sites

Nismo copper mix Twin plate, standard or competition spec. Buy one and you won't regret it. NPC clutches are also good.

An Exedy Sports Tuff Clutch sounds shit and would get destroyed as soon as you start adding some power to your car.

Pay the money now for the right clutch as suggested or you'll be doing it more than once and that can be a costly procedure if you can't do them yourself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502662
Share on other sites

I disagree,what mods are you going to do,exhaust and maybe a couple of others the sports tuff will work well.

Can handle 300 kw at the rears and still be a comfy daily drive,butt if you want say 500 at the rears go for one of the

hyper clutches. :-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502806
Share on other sites

hello everyone i was wondering as to what clutch i should put in my r33 gtr. i have recently bought this car and its now due for a major service as the clutch is on the way out i though now would be a good time to replace it.

i was looking at getting an exedy sports tuff clutch as i have heard

that they are good, keep in mind that my gtr is bone stock.

so would this be a good buy or is there something better on the market. :rolleyes:

If you're staying with stock power, and driving it normally, that clutch is fine. If you're going for more power or will be launching/clutch dumping it, it will be inadequate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502879
Share on other sites

Like I said before look into NPC clutches and the Nismo copper mix twin plate. Both are great and will last forever basically on 300kw with track days, providing you bed the clutch in properly.

If you search the forum you will see many people use these clutches and there are only positive reviews on their performance, feel and noise compared to many other clutches including stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7503296
Share on other sites

Like I said before look into NPC clutches and the Nismo copper mix twin plate. Both are great and will last forever basically on 300kw with track days, providing you bed the clutch in properly.

If you search the forum you will see many people use these clutches and there are only positive reviews on their performance, feel and noise compared to many other clutches including stock.

Thanks ill have a look :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7503307
Share on other sites

I use the NPC 250mm organic single with 300kws and track days. But you don't launch at track days, so they're gentle on clutches. Its as easy to drive as the stock clutch. AFAIK the next step up from NPC is the carbotic, which will take more power and more punishment, but be a bit more difficult to drive. Since my GTR is no longer a daily, I would go for that now.

I think the Nismo coppermix twin recommendation is over the top for your use case, unless of course you have nothing better to do with the money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7503476
Share on other sites

NPC have good customer service so if you call them up they can help you out if you explain what you want exactly.

I agree the Nismo would probably be over the top but depends how deep your pockets are

unfortunately my pockets aren't that deep atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7503815
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
×
×
  • Create New...