Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello everyone i was wondering as to what clutch i should put in my r33 gtr. i have recently bought this car and its now due for a major service as the clutch is on the way out i though now would be a good time to replace it.

i was looking at getting an exedy sports tuff clutch as i have heard

that they are good, keep in mind that my gtr is bone stock.

so would this be a good buy or is there something better on the market. :rolleyes:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/
Share on other sites

The $ rules, but if it is staying stock , why not a stock or re build, they seem pretty tough or any quality single plate.

If you are going to wind it up later , I find the Nismo Coppermix Twin C Spec great , take a lot of KWs and so easy to use, spend a bit more now and save some $s later :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502459
Share on other sites

hello everyone i was wondering as to what clutch i should put in my r33 gtr. i have recently bought this car and its now due for a major service as the clutch is on the way out i though now would be a good time to replace it.

i was looking at getting an exedy sports tuff clutch as i have heard

that they are good, keep in mind that my gtr is bone stock.

so would this be a good buy or is there something better on the market. :rolleyes:

I've had one of these in my GT St for 11 years,no complaints from me. :-)
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502491
Share on other sites

The $ rules, but if it is staying stock , why not a stock or re build, they seem pretty tough or any quality single plate.

If you are going to wind it up later , I find the Nismo Coppermix Twin C Spec great , take a lot of KWs and so easy to use, spend a bit more now and save some $s later :)

its only going to be stock for another month or there about, so i wanted something that can handle a bit of a power upgrade and still last a while.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502524
Share on other sites

Nismo copper mix Twin plate, standard or competition spec. Buy one and you won't regret it. NPC clutches are also good.

An Exedy Sports Tuff Clutch sounds shit and would get destroyed as soon as you start adding some power to your car.

Pay the money now for the right clutch as suggested or you'll be doing it more than once and that can be a costly procedure if you can't do them yourself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502662
Share on other sites

I disagree,what mods are you going to do,exhaust and maybe a couple of others the sports tuff will work well.

Can handle 300 kw at the rears and still be a comfy daily drive,butt if you want say 500 at the rears go for one of the

hyper clutches. :-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502806
Share on other sites

hello everyone i was wondering as to what clutch i should put in my r33 gtr. i have recently bought this car and its now due for a major service as the clutch is on the way out i though now would be a good time to replace it.

i was looking at getting an exedy sports tuff clutch as i have heard

that they are good, keep in mind that my gtr is bone stock.

so would this be a good buy or is there something better on the market. :rolleyes:

If you're staying with stock power, and driving it normally, that clutch is fine. If you're going for more power or will be launching/clutch dumping it, it will be inadequate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7502879
Share on other sites

Like I said before look into NPC clutches and the Nismo copper mix twin plate. Both are great and will last forever basically on 300kw with track days, providing you bed the clutch in properly.

If you search the forum you will see many people use these clutches and there are only positive reviews on their performance, feel and noise compared to many other clutches including stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7503296
Share on other sites

Like I said before look into NPC clutches and the Nismo copper mix twin plate. Both are great and will last forever basically on 300kw with track days, providing you bed the clutch in properly.

If you search the forum you will see many people use these clutches and there are only positive reviews on their performance, feel and noise compared to many other clutches including stock.

Thanks ill have a look :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7503307
Share on other sites

I use the NPC 250mm organic single with 300kws and track days. But you don't launch at track days, so they're gentle on clutches. Its as easy to drive as the stock clutch. AFAIK the next step up from NPC is the carbotic, which will take more power and more punishment, but be a bit more difficult to drive. Since my GTR is no longer a daily, I would go for that now.

I think the Nismo coppermix twin recommendation is over the top for your use case, unless of course you have nothing better to do with the money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7503476
Share on other sites

NPC have good customer service so if you call them up they can help you out if you explain what you want exactly.

I agree the Nismo would probably be over the top but depends how deep your pockets are

unfortunately my pockets aren't that deep atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455057-clutch-change/#findComment-7503815
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...