Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls,

Looking into buying a Mishimoto Radiator soon for my R33

Just wondering if anyone hear has tried one and has good results?

http://www.mishimoto.com/nissan-radiator-performance-aluminum.html

I have read good reviews etc

and it does state it is a "direct fit"

Just looking for some extra info!

Cheers :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455688-mishimoto-radiator-reviews/
Share on other sites

Yeah,

Same here, can't seem to find people that have tried them but have read the good reviews!

Can't say i've used one, but one is on my list of things to buy and like you I've heard only positives about their products!

Matt (DekA) might see this thread and give a review as he uses the Mishimoto radiator on his R34 Gtt.

I also bought a Mishimoto to use on my car but I sold the car before any modding took place.

For r34 gtt's they are a direct fit and no cutting of the shroud is required..

Hope that helps.

As Raj said I have one in my GTT, haven't had any issues with it. I track my car frequently and will consistently do 5 or more fast laps in a session without a cooldown and have not had any oveeheating issues with coolant or oil (mishimoto oil cooler too).

The radiator I have is the MMRAD-RHD-R33 which is their 33GTR unit and that was a direct fit with no modifications required.

That's what I wanted to hear!

Cheers man, I was leaning towards getting one but just wanted to hear about how they fit and performance wise etc!

I will be getting the kit they have for my ECR33 and should bolt in all good!

Thanks again :worship:

As Raj said I have one in my GTT, haven't had any issues with it. I track my car frequently and will consistently do 5 or more fast laps in a session without a cooldown and have not had any oveeheating issues with coolant or oil (mishimoto oil cooler too).

The radiator I have is the MMRAD-RHD-R33 which is their 33GTR unit and that was a direct fit with no modifications required.

Dont replace the std one until you have too, 290rwkw still std on mine and i dont baby it on the road or track...

I disagree with this, unless you only street the car.

Swapping the radiator is something you should do.

The thickness of the stock radiator is appalling, and does a pretty bad job at cooling at extended wot throttle/turbo load.

( all depending on your ambient temperature of course)

Going from a stock r34gtt radiatior (around 15mm) to 50 mm one was night and day.

From ~2 laps full throttle at the track to ~4-5 laps full throttle.

Edited by jay-rod

Yours must of had issues, i can easily do 5+ track laps with stock one

Nope, every r34 i have heard off has the same issues, the radiator is just that small and useless.

If its a different size than the 33s then it might be ok...

But i still would say change it, dont risk blowing a head gasket just because you dont want to change it.

The temp rises Dramatically with the stock one on the track.
Im only going by experience personally with 2 r34s.
Unless your eyes are constantly on the temp gauge, or like you said have an alarm, then it can quite easily overheat.

Its one of those things where you cant be to careful.
But if you trust the stock r33 radiator...then go ahead
I certainly wouldnt

Edited by jay-rod

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...