Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst Possible Fuel Problem?


Stoychevski
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi there first time post.

TL;DR Everything works good, specialist said that not enough fuel going into engine during spool/boost, is it common problem/suggested fix?

I currently have just bought an R33 GTST 1994 Skyline. And it drives great, I took it to a few mechanics and all have said its very very clean. It's only done 94000kms. One mechanic said he suggested new spark plugs and a 2 rocket gasket covers. So I got those done, only about 400 for the lot with labour. But I keep feeling there is power loss, I tried to explain to the mechanic but he said it was just me.

What I explained was that it felt like I could hear the turbo spool, but there was no power, for some reason it just felt like it was taking years for it go from 3000rpm to 6500rpm (7000 is my redline). Just felt slow. Mechanic said I was just thinking things. At first I thought it was boost leak, but he checked all hoses and piping, no leaks, the boost gauge also registers perfect as it should, all the way upto 11psi no jumping or anything.

The car has no misfire or idle problems. But recently a "specialist" who has owned one said that I was indeed right, there was something wrong with it. He said that he thinks up until 3000rpm, til before the turbo spools it drives good, but after that he thinks there isnt enough fuel going through, he said he checked my fuel pump and it was working, there just wasn't any flow. He also mentioned and i have seen this before, usually when similar skylines put the foot down you see more black smoke come out the exhaust because of the higher fuel flow, but mine doesn't get anymore smoke come out. So he suggested I might need to check my fuel pressure at the front where my engine is, get a tune, and possibly might need a new ECU.

The car has an aftermarket exhaust, just a hi-flow, not very big mufflers, I didn't put it in so I'm not quite sure 100% what brand or size it is. But it has an electronic valve controller as well, I don't know how to use it, it has a lot of possible settings, and was also curious if anyone knew anything about it? Could it control my fuel flow? here is some pictures of it, and all its settings - http://imgur.com/a/YsAwf is while the car is idling, and just pushing PWR to turn it on, and then mode to go through the set settings).

And also my HICAS light is on, but god knows what that could be.

Is there a way I can fix this without making it cost $3000+? Or is my mechanic wrong and should I look for/ask for something else? Maybe I should take it to a tune shop and get a second opinion.

Edited by Stoychevski
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its interesting you believe the car has actually only down that many ks.

Its odd to replace rocker gaskets at less than 100_000.

That specialist sounds special.

Go somewhere who knows what they are doing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forums. Be prepared to read and search for ideas on the problem, lol.

Secondly get a second opinion or many more as you don't want to be spending heaps of cash on parts that aren't broken.

Most gtst's are definitely old (probably closer to 200,000km traveled) and run like dog shit so working out what the issue is could take time, be prepared for that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One mechanic said he suggested new spark plugs and a 2 rocket gasket covers. So I got those done, only about 400 for the lot with labour.

Find a new mechanic i thinks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

FYI, add another 100000 or 200000 to your odometer.

My car says 146xxx judging from the amount of parts I have had to replace it's seriously got a decent 346xxx kms. A good give away for age are the castor rod bushes and all four tie rods/tie rod ends.

I bet they're loose as a hoe lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've done it wrong. I don't have time right now to type up enough. I'll have to come back to it or maybe someone else will in the meantime. The boost signal has to pass through the MAC valve from boost source (turbo outlet - effectively anywhere between the turbo outlet and the throttle body will do, but closer to the turbo outlet is best) to the wastegate. What you have done is connected it sort of like the stock solenoid. But it doesn't work the same way as the stock solenoid. That Tee piece that you have connected the solenoid to....? The solenoid itself serves that function. You should look up a typical MAC valve connection diagram for a single turbo internal wastegate application. You'll find one easily enough. Every single boost controller manufacturer that uses MAC valves will have one. Bugger it, I'll just grab the HP Academy one. The other thing you have to get right is that the boost source has to be connected to the correct port on the solenoid valve. This is because the solenoid makes the valve switch from connecting 2 of the ports when it is unpowered, to connecting one of those first 2 ports to the third port when it is powered. One inlet, two outlets. You will note from the diagram that the common port is port 3, the port to the wastegate is port 2, and port 1 is the vent (where the boost signal escapes when the solenoid pulses ON). As to the BOV.... the vacuum signal for the BOV simply has to come from the plenum. It must register boost when you're on boost and vacuum when the throttle is closed. That's all. The original location on the plenum is best. Best practice is never to interfere with the vacuum line running to the FPR. Just leave that one alone, as you will avoid causing unintended problems that might occur if you mess something up.
    • I was able to complete installation of the G4X ecu. I needed to reroute MAP vacuum signal from stock location to where BOV is connected on the intake plenum. Has anyone needed to do the same? When I connect vac port by the BOV flange to my HKS BOV, it doesnt work and I get flutter. I would to get BOV working, where would it be best to T in? Or would it best for me to move MAP vac line and T into FPR? Secondly, I installed a MAC 3 port boost solenoid and wanted to know if i routed it correctly. I place two lines from stock boost solenoid and placed it on ports 1 and 2, leaving 3 vented. The T for wastegate and boost source on compressor elbow is on port 2, and port 1 is connected to turbo inlet intake pipe. Please see attached pictures. Ill upload ecu config later today. Thanks in advance.
    • some people are still around weirdly enough - most people just use facebook now to ask the same 12 questions tho XD  
    • Omg Rezz! Yep we're still here and actually seeing a trickle of oldies coming back.  How's things? 
    • So I raised the car up a fair bit for shipping - see image - then lowered it again when it arrived. I then rushed to get an alignment in NL before the track and the shop just wasn’t anywhere near as precise as what I got in Japan. The guys that did the alignment this week said there was a fair amount of toe in the rear that could have contributed to the understeer. It was also the case that the rear camber went from about -2 to -3 at the shop in NL. However, since I’ve now got slightly wider tires in the rear - NS2Rs run wider than Accelera 651S - I could only get a minimum of -3 in the rear now due to clearance. Front is now -2.75 (-2.45 in minutes) due to being raised a bit (previously -3 in JP). So it’s likely a combination of the two factors, camber and toe. The issue now is I have more camber in the rear than the front and the next step on the front Cusco arms will put me at -3.5ish front which seems a bit excessive to me. The weird thing is I’ve never had any understeer at the track in Japan but they are very different circuits - Japanese circuits are much slower than the one I’ve been to here.    I’m probably going to have to start another thread for the E90. The plan is sort of to keep it as a daily but progressively mod it into a track car - honestly, you need a cage for the sort of speeds you go here. Just ordered the M3 front arms btw.  Love the car despite it being in pretty shitty condition. Oil analysis came back okay and it seems to have stopped consuming oil since fixing a load of engine bay things. Saw yours is a 335i right? f**king mistake on my part getting the DI N53 over the N52, fuel economy is insanely good though at 14-16 km/L.   Cheers, it’s great to see the benefits and pitfalls of different places. I’m contemplating going back to the U.K. around next year as the cost of living in the Netherlands is just ridiculous. GF is nagging me to settle and buy a house but I don’t know what LSD to buy. 
×
×
  • Create New...