Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

Anyone used any panel and paint shops for a complete glass out panel off respray they have had a good experience with? 

AFM Enterprises have been highly recommended to me, but they're VERY expensive.

  • Like 1
Yep that burns

So 24hours after fitting splits in my Ute, had a phone call and the ringtone blew one of the crossovers.

Always something to fix [emoji107]
Achy breaky heart at 250w.? No wonder it split [emoji174]
does this mean you dont want to come pull the dash out of the focus for me?
Saturday morning, about 1 hour after fitting 4 brand new tyres, the fkn heater core shat and spewed hot water all over my feet [emoji20] 8 years and almost 100 000km and NOW it finally breaks something....
Looks likes sneakers or boots all round for Sau safety. I thought ethylene glycol was good for bunions and fungus? 4 x brand new 19x245x35s on the xr8. It's a entire car key inside the tyre/rim. So 5 x new tyres. Ffs.DSC_0199_4(1)(1).JPG
54 minutes ago, hattori hanzo said:

Anyone used any panel and paint shops for a complete glass out panel off respray they have had a good experience with? 

Oh, and @z00keyuses In-Style Collision, they've done really good work with his car.

P2240079.jpg

  • Like 1
does this mean you dont want to come pull the dash out of the focus for me?
Saturday morning, about 1 hour after fitting 4 brand new tyres, the fkn heater core shat and spewed hot water all over my feet [emoji20] 8 years and almost 100 000km and NOW it finally breaks something....


Would cost a lifetime of reacharounds.

Was virtually a full day to do my Ute and had a few gremlins that appeared in the following days and required more work

So thanks but no thanks
  • Like 1


Would cost a lifetime of reacharounds.

Was virtually a full day to do my Ute and had a few gremlins that appeared in the following days and required more work

So thanks but no thanks
Have you got a fluke? Yep fluked it!
2 hours ago, hattori hanzo said:

Anyone used any panel and paint shops for a complete glass out panel off respray they have had a good experience with? 

yep Rubin from instyle collision the guys there are awesome, i also have a mate who is back in Perth I have just got back in contact with who does really decent work and takes massive pride in his work I will post a link to his youtube channel so u can see his work.

1 hour ago, t_revz said:

 


Would cost a lifetime of reacharounds.

Was virtually a full day to do my Ute and had a few gremlins that appeared in the following days and required more work

So thanks but no thanks

 

lo I fkn here ya. Got it bypassed for now, but I have to pay someone to fix it, so if you are looking for a cashie for a weekend, let me know.

Things is, I am still not convinced its the heater. A couple of days after changing the coolant, the o-ring on the petcock shat on the radiator dump, and this makes me suspect the o-rings in the heater line even more.

 

fkn cars.

  • Like 1
lo I fkn here ya. Got it bypassed for now, but I have to pay someone to fix it, so if you are looking for a cashie for a weekend, let me know.
Things is, I am still not convinced its the heater. A couple of days after changing the coolant, the o-ring on the petcock shat on the radiator dump, and this makes me suspect the o-rings in the heater line even more.
 
fkn cars.

O-rings you say?

Which ones?
I thought it was a good electrical joke? Might be time to bow out gracefully?


My latest multi meter was run over by a Ute months back and is now starting to tell lies. Might order a newbie tomorrow
  • Like 1



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...