Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys new to SAU, Just signed up.

I'm looking to buy a skyline and I've been looking at one which is immaculate, It's owned by my mate, Has just had a fresh Respray, It's completely 100% stock apart from an immobiliser and alarm system on remote, The readout says 40,xxx kms but I'm not sure if I should trust them or not?

Engine looks to be in good condition aswell, Has been compression tested, He's recently rebuilt the head aswell as general maintainence, Replacement of fluids, ect.

Now I'm looking to have this as a daily driver, I've tried searching for this topic and have found information but it's all mixed opinions.

What are your thoughts on an R32 GTR in terms of daily driving and reliability? All I've managed to read about is some people saying you'll need to rebuild the whole engine which is big $$ and others saying it'll be fine?

I'm not looking to do any serious modifications at the time being so it will be left stock.

Could someone please elaborate on the issues that they may experience ect? I'm new to jap cars especially skylines, I'm a mechanic by trade but still not sure on the 26's.

Thanks guys ✌?️

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456637-buying-an-r32-gtr-help/
Share on other sites

Get the underside of the car checked for any worn bearings/bushes and potential rust issues that the car may have. If it has plenty of those that you can't see just by going around the car then you could be up for some work.

Also the 40,000km is likely to be BS, most likely closer to 150,000km or more, so if you really wanted to know the true value before it was imported you can do the Japanese History/Rego check thing and you can get the Auction Documents for a small fee. You'd be able to guess with certain things on the car aging the difference between "40,000" and the unknown true value.

Secondly if you are daily driving and the engine is in good condition, verified by a compression test, then needing to rebuild the whole engine is a load of shit, it's like driving another car, except if things break or you want to do things it will cost you a fortune compared to other dailies.

If the car is in good condition and you purchase it and it's fairly stock, daily driving shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure you keep up regular maintenance intervals and check over the car frequently to make sure it's all running well. Quite easy to do a fair amount of things on the RB yourself just read up if you are unsure.

I Daily drive a 33 gtr currently and the car is reliable just like any other car with maintenance, but when you start wanting to modify it you have to take it off the road and need some other form of transport until its ready again. My car sits fairly low and I have some problems getting up driveways and jacking up the car requires 3 stages.

If your a mechanic just look at issues other 25 year old cars have. Heater hoses, clutch, leaks, etc.

And then look how annoying it is to repair that on an rb26.

Gho5t daily drives a 32 gtr and will likely add his input soon.

I daily'd my GT-R for a year and a bit, get ready to pay for petrol (avg. 14L/100km).

Apart from that, if suspension is relatively standard, it's fine. I have a heavy arsed clutch and stiffer suspension, bigger wheels/low profile tyres and some suspension bits changed.

But Sydney's shitty roads and traffic will leave you shitty after the drive.

Reliability wise, they're fine. No different to any other turbo car (maintain it properly and it'll be fine).

My car has ~150,000 import km, AFAIK unopened engine and standard turbos/boost/ECU/etc.

Yeah most work I'd be doing myself to be honest, As long as it's nothing major.

My mates got all the paperwork and import papers ect for it, What's this Japanese rego thing? If anyone has a link that would be great.

Sounds like it should be fine as a daily, I'm use to rough roads and I'm sure I'll get over the traffic, I'll keep up maintainence obviously and won't be modifying it for a while, I want to keep it stock until I get a really good feel of the car,

Spending 3 hours in traffic everyday was shithouse, so glad I train it to work now.

Drive around normally and it's no different to any other AWD turbo car. It's when you start shoving more air and thrashing the crap out of it you'll run into trouble, like any other car.

He's a good mate of mine, He's had a full Respray done with rust cut out of the wheel arch, quarter panels and rear window sill.

Head was rebuilt as he noticed a hint of oil in the radiator and as a precaution did the head gasket, didn't seem to be the issue but the Problem seemed to stop after that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...