Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Why not just buy a known working engine and save yourself the headache. They're cheap enough.

Look up rods and pistons then add in you may be up for a crank also depending on how bad the damage is. Add on the cost of machining and assembly. For allllll of that you could buy two (possibly more) working stockers.

  • Like 1

solved that misconception then.

its the same as asking how much for a respray.
depends whats broken, what issues arrise when you start, how far do you want or need to go, what parts your using, how much your paying per hour, how long it takes.

Its not hard asking people to help you.

They also don't have to help you.

Take charge of your life and do things for yourself. You will gain knowledge and a fulfilling sense of achievement.

It will set a good example for those around you.

  • Like 3

I didn't actually think it would be this hard just to jump online and ask if anyone had done this before and find out an approximate cost...

My bill was $3000. That included machining and the cost to screw it together.

That DID NOT include oil pump, water pump, set of pistons, head gasket or any of the other parts you may change.

Buying something "cheap" because it's busted only to spend what you saved plus much more doesn't seem a good plan.

  • Like 1

To fully rebuild an engine and make it stronger with forged pistons rods etc.

Got quoted about 10k from race pace - Their quality of work is top notch tho

Its all depends on how much you want to spend.

IMO, Its better to just buy a second hand engine, but I prefer to rebuild it so it lasts and I have no future headaches -

Appears there are so many arrogant pricks on this forum, be alot easier to just answer the kids genuine question

Edited by MariahCarey
  • Like 1

To fully rebuild an engine and make it stronger with forged pistons rods etc.

Got quoted about 10k from race pace - Their quality of work is top notch tho

Appears there are so many arrogant pricks on this forum

I would have to agree the guy only asked an approx cost. Few ego problems

Good on you piggaz :)

I would have to agree the guy only asked an approx cost. Few ego problems

Good on you piggaz :)

Because we all have different engine builders

I paid 7k for a build that had nothing but issues before it went bang

could easily pay 20k + to get something half decent and that doesnt include things like turbos and manifolds

For a R33 Rb25det, it really needs the pistons and valve springs, its a good idea to have it properly built then saving coins. Mine cost about $5G to rebuild including CP pistons, Supertech valve springs plus other bits and pieces.

Well - I ended up cracking my block.

bending my crank

putting metal through my turbos

blowing up my oil pump

putting metal through oil cooler.

cleaning head

machining head

checking new block

getting new bearings

pistons

rods

head gasket

valve springs retainers and guides

new oil pump etc etc

So its cost over $20k.

So lets say a basic build could be $5k. Full forged build with heaps the goodies and pretty much worst case engine damage.....$20k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...