Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help: R34 Gtr Ecu


sr20dettttt
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Just bought a car and it's running extremely rich. r34 gtr vspec

There is a piggy back system connected to the ecu:

http://www.perfectpower.net.au/smt-6.html

I want to take it off, however, when the mechanic removed it, the car won't start.

He suggested that the standard ecu might not be working correctly in the first place which is why the piggy back ecu is there.

Is there anyone here who could lend me their stock ecu?

Are all r34 gtr ecus the same? vspec non vspec etc?

Or should I just go buy a power fc and tune?

What do you guys suggest?

Thanks guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No difference that I know vspec vs non vspec as the difference is the abs and 4wd computers. Ditch that piggy back and if it still doesn't start read up on NATS in the bnr34 service manual and get Ecu Diag cable or PFC which will also work

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i still have no idea whats going on.. it's pretty confusing. i dont have a ecu diag cable..

i've taken out the piggy back unit and reconnected the standard ecu, however the car wont fire up.

maybe recommendations on where i can take the car to? someone who knows r34 gtrs and the nats system?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your injectors are probably too big for the stock ecu; could be all number of factors if the car is modified. Get it tuned with an aftermarket ecu and save your money down the track.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Okay so...

Bought r34 gtr power fc, installed but doesn't fire up and concluded it's the NATS. The r34 gtr power fc requires an input signal from the factory immobiliser.

Also realised, the car is running an r32 gtr ecu with that piggy back unit.. which means.. the factory immobiliser was disabled anyway. (I have an aftermarket immobiliser)

So the only solution was to buy an r33 gtr power fc, switch some pins around, and tune.

Car is now running fine, factory immobiliser is disabled however have aftermarket immobiliser and alarm system to compensate.

I think a benefit of this set up is that if I were to purchase a spare key, I would not need to code the key.

Are there any cons you guys could think of in this set up?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Potentially easier to steal if the thief spots random non-factory wiring and recognises it as the immobiliser and bypasses it...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK so I just bidded $500 on an R33 GTS4 that no one seems to want. Waiting on a call from the agent to see if I won. 32 GTS4 is for sale. I can't deal with the temptation to mod it.
    • Might be there for work later in the year. Wouldn't mind catching up with you fellas - can't have too many beers, but will consume copious amounts of takoyaki while executing an asian squat on the side of the road while you blokes sort out your hangovers.
    • I know one example is a anecdote not data, but I'm running the same Aeroflow 525 at full voltage through a regular relay, and while I've had other fuel problems including melting the factory fuel hat, the pump itself has been fine for years. Of course, they aren't *that* expensive these days, you could swap in a new one and see if the issue is resolve. I think you had a previous thread about fuel problems, have you been monitoring and logging fuel pressure? Is there anything voltage related (for example does the voltage go up when the pressure goes down)
    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
×
×
  • Create New...