Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI There,

I have oiling issue on my RB3025 néo engine. I HAVE READ NUMBERS OF TOPICS ABOUT THAT... BUT... found no solution.
A complete drawing will be the best to explain my sittuation.
Engine is pulling hard, I don't think there is too much blow-by...

I really hope a solution to fix that and raise up my boost !

See attached file !

Cheers from France ;)

post-86717-0-73045400-1433629382_thumb.jpg

First, ensure that the breathers from the rocker covers to the catch can are both seperate. T-ing these lines effectively halves the breathing capacity.

Secondly, introduce some vacuum into the system. Either via the pcv valve or pre-turbo but preferably both. Vacuum in the crankcase is a good thing.

Lastly, if that doesn't work, hide under some coats and hope that somehow, everything will work out.

Your plumbing looks ok but

1. are your sump breathers both above the oil level in the sump?\

and

2. is your catch can 300ml? It needs to be 2L (2000ml)

also what oil pump and do you have any restrictors in the oil feeds?

As has been said get a bigger catch can because 300ml is way too small

Also needs one way check valve on the drain back from catch can so oil doesn't pump out of it. As r32-25t said it needs the sump breather to the can well above oil surge level or you are just pumping oil up the breather.

And I just saw you have the rear head breather teed to the turbo oil drain. That's not a good idea because you could be causing oil to back up into the turbo drain.

Edited by Dobz
  • Like 1

how are people getting a hole above the oil surge line on stock sump? I was looking at my block today and couldn't really find a good place to drill a hole in the side of it without it coming close to the structure of the main caps which I don't really want to drill into the block anyway...

As has been said get a bigger catch can because 300ml is way too small

Also needs one way check valve on the drain back from catch can so oil doesn't pump out of it. As r32-25t said it needs the sump breather to the can well above oil surge level or you are just pumping oil up the breather.

And I just saw you have the rear head breather teed to the turbo oil drain. That's not a good idea because you could be causing oil to back up into the turbo drain.

This

how are people getting a hole above the oil surge line on stock sump? I was looking at my block today and couldn't really find a good place to drill a hole in the side of it without it coming close to the structure of the main caps which I don't really want to drill into the block anyway...

Well its easy with an RB26 sump but I imagine with a steel sump you could have an elbow facing up til its well clear of the oil level so long as it doesn't get in the way of the crank etc.

  • Like 1

^ Im liking the way youre thinking!

In regards to dobs post he said that you need a one way check valve from the drain of the catch can to the sump to stop oil from flowing out the can, im a little confuzed as to how crank gasses can get out then? As i thought that was the point?

^ Im liking the way youre thinking!

In regards to dobs post he said that you need a one way check valve from the drain of the catch can to the sump to stop oil from flowing out the can, im a little confuzed as to how crank gasses can get out then? As i thought that was the point?

Frank there is a breather hose and a drain back hose. The drain back is the lowest hose.

Some people put a check valve in one line and it works for them. I have no check valve - my theory is at full WOT pressure escapes via both hoses and I haven't found an uphill straight long enough to fill my 2L catch can so when I lift off it drains back fairly quickly via the bottom hose. But others have a check valve in one line with no problems.

  • Like 2

OK buddies! thanks a lot for your comment ! ! !
1. I must have forgot the check valve trick. Whitch seems a great solution for me !
2. Aswell as the 2 liters can !

Dobz : "I could be causing oil to back up into the turbo drain T'ing it with the rear head drain."
I thought the rear head drain was a drain. You think it is more a blow-by vent? (it shoudn't be as the bottom end is already vented on the intake side (as much as possible))
And I never saw my ball bearing turbo smoke oil (my exhaust piping is clean). And I have no other place to T the rear head drain.

Does some people here think the rear oil drain is useless?

White GTS-T : 1. I thing venting it (pcv etc...) in the engine intake is the risk of putting oil in it and knocking. Quite risky i think whith my E85 setup (high timing).
2. T'ing the 2 top lines of the cam cover minimise the amount of air venting out of the head ; then minimize the amount of gaz coming up from the cranckcase... => Better oil drain from head to cranckase then IMO. Don't you think ?
3. what does mean : "hide under some coats" (english is not my first language ;) )

Attached is a bigger picture of my sump. My holes are all above the oil level. I was just hoping that the oil wasn't comming in front of those holes when accelerating... It would cause oil to get up in the catch can. (But it is meant to be a RIPS model...)

post-86717-0-44830000-1433772185_thumb.jpg

Edited by lolo.37

My spool head drain tees in with the turbo drain. Havent had any issues yet. Checked my catch can the other day and its bone dry. I run a line from the catch can to the intake pipe and a PCV though so different setup.

My spool head drain tees in with the turbo drain. Havent had any issues yet. Checked my catch can the other day and its bone dry. I run a line from the catch can to the intake pipe and a PCV though so different setup.

Needs more rpm :P

Are you actually getting oil from the breathers?
For an N1 pump to push that much oil there's something funny going on.
I would be looking at your catch can drain, being on the intake side isn't a good idea IMO.

  • 1 month later...
OK This seem to be solved!
As you advised me :
I have put a check Valve in the oil drain. (was a 14mm on picture but replaced by a 17mm model)
I bought a 2 Liters can; (I baffled it myself just to do things perfectly right)

See attached files !
And TA DAAAA ! Done! No more oil coming out ! This is great !
But now there is a question that haunts me... How much oil can I put in my catch can and in my heads. There must be some oil stocked by those 2. It needs to get down on the boost/revs so oil can return back in the sump.
From how many seconds to the limiter do I take a risk of sucking air in the oil pump (while cornering mostly, using extended oil sump)
Anyone as ideas ofhow to check that?

post-86717-0-96907500-1437565905_thumb.jpg

post-86717-0-00515000-1437566010_thumb.jpg

post-86717-0-46198000-1437566187_thumb.jpg

post-86717-0-85337400-1437566324_thumb.jpg

Edited by lolo.37

That's what the restrictors are for - to minimize excessive oil in the head - and if you have a 2 litre catch can that's the most that can fit so if you have an extended sump (8-9 litres?)_ you are unlikelyu to empty it. As soon as you lift off the oil in the catch can should flow back pretty quickly. If you have an aftermarket ecu you should be able to log the oil pressure but I doubt you are emptying the sump now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...